Browse all

Peter Do inaugurates his menswear line

«Finally», says the whole world

Peter Do inaugurates his menswear line «Finally», says the whole world

Peter Do's next show, which will take place during the upcoming New York Fashion Week, is set for September 13. The date is important both because the one with Peter Do is perhaps one of the most anticipated appointments of the entire fashion month schedule and because this show will be the one with which the designer will debut his menswear line. The success Peter Do has garnered since his debut in 2018 has been slow but growing: buyers and audiences loved his silhouettes well before his runway debut last year, also held in New York, and according to what the designer tells the Financial Times, men have also begun to appreciate and buy her womenswear, especially coats, knitwear, and bags. In truth, it should be specified that many of Do's designs are already genderless, and thus the addition of a men's line to the brand's offering did not require huge deviations from the brand's original vision; it was more a matter of adjusting some proportions for broader shoulders and narrower hips, while also introducing unisex silhouettes such as cashmere hoodies

At the time of the Vietnamese designer's first runway show, we had defined him as the standard bearer of a new "post-ironic" fashion born after the pandemic, namely a tendentially independent style that already in its inception focused on the sophistication of tailoring materials and techniques. If many brands in post-2015 were "ironic" because they elevated or transformed into fashion the aesthetic codes of streetwear, working class, and upper middle class of yesteryear - a recent example might be Balenciaga's "garbage bag" or the jewelry-sex toys presented by both Gucci and Alan Crocetti and Homer. Post-ironic fashion is not interested in the paradoxical, the piquant, or the quotable and focuses instead on a hyper-curated finished product. Peter Do thus fits into the vein of Bottega Veneta and The Row whose fundamental aesthetic imprint comes from Phoebe Philo, but also of Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli. The opening of a menswear line thus represents a potential revolution not only for the brand but for menswear, whose culture will be enriched by a new cult brand that will carry forward its language.