
Every fashion debut of 2025
The list is really long
January 13th, 2025
2024 will be remembered as a year of chaos in fashion, marked by new contracts, luxury crisis, and sudden departures. If, during the past year, the luxury world prepared itself almost weekly for major unexpected news, now, in 2025, we will finally see the results of the “musical chairs” within the fashion landscape. Starting with Couture Week next week and continuing through to September's fashion month, it seems as though a new chapter is unfolding, considering that most changes have involved the brands at the top of the pyramid. First, during Haute Couture week, we will witness the highly anticipated debut of Peter Copping for Lanvin, who was announced as the new artistic director last June. On the same occasion, we will also see the first artisanal collection by Alessandro Michele for Valentino, a moment widely awaited by the fashion world. Still, within this first month of the year, we will also witness the debut of David Koma for Blumarine, following a very brief creative direction under Walter Chiapponi last year. And while January sees fashion cautiously dipping its toes into the new waters of 2025, February's fashion month brings with it many of the year’s most awaited novelties.
@l.elefante.blu #AlessandroMichele interview for the #BoF #pfw #fashiontiktok #maisonvalentino #moda #fashion Strange Tales - Winston Green & Robert Edwards
Starting with NYFW, the major return of Calvin Klein to the runway, now under the creative direction of Veronica Leoni, stands out: a more than six-year absence for one of the giants of American fashion, which had completely withdrawn from the scene. Still in New York, but among emerging brands, FFORME will debut its new creative director Frances Howie, formerly design director at Stella McCartney from 2009 to 2021. However, the FW25 news doesn’t end in the first week: it continues overseas, especially during Milan Fashion Week. Following the unexpected departure of Alberta Ferretti from her eponymous brand, Lorenzo Serafini will take the reins, debuting with a FW25 collection that includes a fusion with his former brand, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini. Additionally, in Milan, Haider Ackermann will present his first collection for Tom Ford, which is considered one of the most intriguing debuts of the year, especially considering the previous creative direction by Peter Hawkings, which lasted less than a year. Turning to comebacks, after the exit of Kim Jones from menswear last October, Fendi becomes a family affair again as Silvia Venturini Fendi takes over the direction of both collections, just in time to celebrate the brand’s centenary. Wrapping up the winter fashion month in style, we will see the debut of Sarah Burton at Givenchy, who left her Alma Mater, Alexander McQueen, in September after 23 long years: first as Lee McQueen’s right-hand person and later as creative director following the designer’s death. Lastly, after the sudden departure of Dries Van Noten late last year, the Belgian designer’s successor, Julian Klausner, has been announced; he perfectly embodies the brand’s DNA, having been part of the team since 2018.
CFDA welcomes the return of Calvin Klein Collection and its new creative director Veronica Leoni to the Official #NYFW Schedule next season. The intimate showing of both women’s and men’s looks will take place on February 7, 2025.
— CFDA (@CFDA) December 20, 2024
Read more: https://t.co/ptjRZmoFMJ pic.twitter.com/oWa31GRHoc
December 12 will go down in the annals as one of the most chaotic days in fashion. After a flurry of news about two major luxury names, Bottega Veneta and Chanel, this September we will finally witness the much-awaited debuts of Louise Trotter and Matthieu Blazy at their new Maisons. Trotter will be the first female designer to fully oversee the artistic direction of the Italian brand, succeeding the co-direction of Vittorio and Laura Moltedo from 1990 to 2001. As for Blazy, expectations are sky-high: after three years of great success at Bottega, it is hoped that the Belgian designer will revive the Rue Cambon brand, which, since the death of Karl Lagerfeld in 2019, has struggled to captivate audiences in the same way. However, a major question mark hovers over Paris: no date has yet been set for Michael Rider’s debut at Celine, succeeding Hedi Slimane (whose next moves remain shrouded in mystery).
A fashion calendar brimming with changes, which we hope will bring a refreshing wave of innovation, considering how stagnant last year’s collections seemed. However, this does not mean the novelties end here, as many major luxury names – such as Riccardo Tisci, Jeremy Scott, and John Galliano – are currently on hiatus. Additionally, some brands remain leaderless, starting with Maison Margiela, after Galliano himself left the house last December. 2025 seems poised to deliver further surprises, perhaps still indecipherable. Considering that Y/Project closed in the first week of the year and that growing rumors suggest major upheavals at Versace – between the end of Donatella’s contract and a possible acquisition by the Prada Group – we are in for quite a show.