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The best sets of SS19 Men's Fashion Weeks

From the rainbow catwalk of Virgil Abloh x Louis Vuitton to the beach near Marseilles of Jacquemus

The best sets of SS19 Men's Fashion Weeks  From the rainbow catwalk of Virgil Abloh x Louis Vuitton to the beach near Marseilles of Jacquemus

Usually the designers reserve the most spectacular sets and locations for women's fashion shows, but even in these fashion weeks dedicated to menswear, we have seen collections presented in special places.

Let's take a look at the most beautiful and interesting choices of the SS19: from the rainbow walkway by Virgil Abloh x Louis Vuitton to the beach near Marseille by Jacquemus, from the architecture of Prada to the show in Liberty State Park in Saint Laurent .

What is your favorite set?

 

Jacquemus: beach of the Calanque de Sormiou

Simon Porte Jacquemus made his debut with Le Gadjo, his first men's collection, on the beach of the Calanque de Sormiou, an inlet where the cliff descends precipitously over the sea in the Calanques Natural Park near Marseille.

Regarding this choice he said:

"I grew up here, just behind those big limestone rocks. I grew up here, among the olive trees and the red tomato fields. I grew up here, with those men in blue overalls, paired with blue handbags and hats, all light blue [...] with those clean and ironed white Saturday night shirts that give you a nice tan in the summer [...] I grew up here, barefoot, bare-chested, with a strong scent in the air. I grew up here in the Mediterranean. "

 

Thom Browne: École des Beaux-Arts

 

A multicolored fence framing a garden full of miniature houses with a vaguely 1950s flavor, turning them, balloons, flowers and a plethora of gnomes merrily mowing the lawn.

For his show, Thom Browne transforms the École des Beaux-Arts into a fantastic hybrid between Alice in Wonderland and Willy Wonka, perfectly mirrored also by the eccentric preppy clothes, in squared prints, multicolored, with crabs , lobsters and whales, in oversize corduroy blazers, shorts or bowler hats.

 

Rick Owens: Palais de Toyko

Rick Owens' invitations for the show came in the form of anti-pollution masks, an accessory necessary to deal with the colored smoke that came out from a series of metal columns by wrapping the catwalk.

These large clouds of blue, yellow, red and vivid green filled the air in the large courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo, creating an effect, at the same time, particularly beautiful and uncomfortable, almost apocalyptic.

The same sentiments evoked by the inspirations of the collection: the Tatlin's Tower, a monument designed by the Russian artist and architect Vladimir Tatlin and the Tower of Babel, a legendary biblical building designed to reach paradise, but never ended by the chaos and confusion triggered by God who, making people speak many different languages, prevented them from understanding each other.

 

Louis Vuitton: Jardin du Palais-Royal

 

Rihanna, Takashi Murakami, A $ AP Rocky, Kim Kardashian, Kanye West, Kylie Jenner, a hundred students of fashion schools and many fashionistas have surrounded the long multicolored catwalk, a reference to the dispersion of light from a prism (as in the cover of "Dark Side of the Moon"), inside the Jardin du Palais Royal in Paris, to witness the debut of Virgil Abloh from Louis Vuitton.

The rainbow is the leitmotif of the collection, a symbol of pride and multiculturalism, also reflected in the more than 50 looks presented.

While Dev Hynes, rapper Kid Cudi, Lucien Clarke and all the other models alternated, the band of contemporary jazz BadBadNotGood played on the sides of the catwalk.

 

Dior: Garde Républicaine

 

After Virgil Abloh from Louis Vuitton, the debut of Kim Jones from Dior was the most awaited event of the last Paris Fashion Week.

The show was held in a circular catwalk in Garde Républicaine, around a giant figure of KAWS built by Eric Chauvin with about 70,000 roses (a rereading of the founder of the maison with his puppy Bobby in his arms), on the notes of Born slippy of the Underworld and Halycon of the Orbital Halycon remixed by Diplo.

Jones explained that he chose KAWS because he considers him one of the most important creative figures of this generation:

"Everyone loves his work, they understand it, it's easy, it's fantastic. So I commissioned him to do the bee and also the set for the show."

As a teaser of the fashion show, the brand had published on its IG account images of a series of celebrities with toys by KAWS x Dior.

 

Saint Laurent: Liberty State Park

 

For the SS19 of the French fashion house, Anthony Vaccarello has mixed rock'n roll influences with inspirations taken from the legendary launch party of the 1978 perfume Opium by Yves Saint Laurent frequented by icons such as Cher, Truman Capote and Diana Vreeland.

The New York debut of the Italian-Belgian designer took place in New Jersey, in Liberty State Park, opposite Liberty Island and Ellis Island. While the models paraded on a polished black marble walkway that almost mingled with the muddy waters of the Hudson, an audience of stars like Travis Scott, 21 Savage, Lauryn Hill, Kate Moss, Dave Franco, and Lakeith Stanfield, watched the show sit down under a massive scaffolding from which the thick fog slowly came out.

Dark and evocative.

 

Prada: Headquarters in Via Fogazzaro

 

Prada presented its new men's collection in a space designed by AMO in its headquarters in Via Fogazzaro.

"A geometric pattern invades the room, a manifestation of the principles that organize the show’s choreography, numbers and symbols define the exact positioning of the actors in the space, alluding to geographic coordinates of remote places." - explained AMO, further specifying - "A regular grid of squares evenly organized in space obsessively cover the surfaces of the room. It serves as [a] blueprint to occupy the space defining the four trajectories of the catwalk, as well as, which of the squares should be occupied by the stools and therefore the guests. Different elements were used to enhance the graphic impact of the grid: the seating code and a set of coordinates that correspond to series of remote islands that somehow recall the mathematical approximation of geographic representation.”

The audience was seated on transparent cubic seats, encapsulated within square outlines. The chairs are an exclusive re-edition of the Inflatable Stool by Danish furniture designer Verner Panton.

To complete the atmosphere there was a series of pink lights scattered along the sides that gave the show an unreal and wonderful appearance.

 

Maison Margiela Artisanal: Margiela atelier in rue Saint-Maur

 

For his debut in the Artisanal menswear, John Galliano invited the American artist Tony Matelli to present his series of sculptures Vanitas on the catwalk of the brand's atelier in Paris, at 163 of rue Saint-Maur.

These four pieces of cement and Greek-inspired marble seem to be scattered with fruit, but in reality the limes, the watermelons and oranges are cast in bronze and painted as if they had just been picked.

There is a Roman warrior without legs, strewn with berries and a broken mango; a bust of a woman in cement with Japanese mandarins above; the lower part of a figure adorned with watermelons and half of the body of the goddess Diana with lime leaning on it.

  

Hermès: Cloître des Cordeliers

 

After the cloister of the Hôtel de l'Artillerie chosen last January, Hermès returned to the cloister of the Cordeliers, occupied by the Ecole de Médecine Pierre et Marie, to present the men's collection for spring-summer 2019.

The courtyard of this monument, symbol of the French revolution, which today is a cultural center whose mission is to spread scientific knowledge, full of hydrangeas and other plants, but also of linen spread on a thread to dry, is the perfect casual chic set for the creations of Véronique Nichanian.

 

Plein Sport: via Manzoni 42

Philipp Plein recreates for his show a sort of Beverly Hills Tennis Club, with the models turned into talented clones of Björn Borg and John McEnroe!

Everything is ready for the set: green lawn, net, scoreboard... a perfect tennis court populated by boys and girls in sportswear, with visors, headbands, leggings, cuffs and poles.

Milan better than Wimbledon.