Hello London #8 - LCM

The gender differentiation between man/woman isn't something that goes hand in hand with fashion weeks anymore, and London Collections: Men set forth to abolish that this season, indulging itself in a myriad of gender neutral shows.

We'll be looking at the top ten best collections:

 

#1 CRAIG GREEN

Absolutely unique and 'faded' colours, achieved through many phases of coloration and de-colourisation, these are the main characters of Craig Green's S/S collection. The distinctive reference to military cuts and uniforms -  Boy Scouts' in this collection - of the designer, with a more romantic and sophisticated interpretation seen through acidic and 'pale' tonalities.

 

#2 NASIR MAZHAR 

Black has always been the main theme of the latest collections we've seen by him, this year bright and vibrant colours engulfed the catwalk. Once again, finding his main inspiration in exploring London's subcultures, Nasir Mazhar brought on the scene an army of raver-warriors, extravagant colours, backpacks resembling a modern-day armor, tied in front, and Lacey sportswear.

 

#3 EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

With a fashion week debut dated just to the last season, Edward Crutchley is the revelation of this LCM. In a room at the ME Hotel, air-mattresses stacked on one another, the models, covered in beautiful pieces of silk with relaxed cuts and decorated with fine embroidery inspired by an oriental feel, rested showing the true main highlight of the show: the latex stockings. An innovative construction of the pieces, which makes use of the 3D visualization software Clo, this collection takes us through places and flavors of the past thanks to the "wallpaper" style, and at the same time projects us into the future with coated latex texture.

 

#4 WALES BONNER

If you were already thinking young London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner was crafting refined collections marked by a high level of tailoring, this season she will totally amaze you. Inspired by the figure of Hailie Selassie, by Ethiopian royalty and Caribbean culture, the collection is a triumph of silks, crochets, and cuts made to perfection. The Ethiopian use of covering your face while in the presence of royalty, as eye contact is not allowed, is translated here in elegant 'masks', which, like waterfalls of charms and pendants, provide the whole with a sense of preciousness.

 

#5 BOBBY ABLEY 

Abley is famous for his playful spirit and for often taking inspiration from the characters that populate his childhood memories – does anyone remember his collection inspired by Star Wars? This year the theme was Aladdin, with the faces of Genie and Abu camping over super colourful sweatshirts. Another reference, as suggested by the invitation - an exclusive ticket, featuring the emblematic teddy bear, to his own imaginary airline - was that of the travel: pillows to sleep on the plane wrapped around the models' necks, and hand trolleys. We certainly can not say Abley's fashion ever miss to entertain and amuse.

 

#6 ASTRID ANDERSEN 

A collection bringing beiges, grays and layering to the fore, for a reinterpretation of the sporty style in a more sophisticated key, with frequent black lace details to mark a strong contrast with the more delicate colours. Astrid Andersen's collection elevates streetwear, placing it right in the world of luxury.

 

#7 XANDER ZHOU 

Wide trousers billowing and unfolding like skirts, chokers that read the word 'freedom', necklaces made out of safety pins, stripes on stripes, military fantasies, and especially chains – hanging from the pockets of the shirts, form the pants or even wrapped around the waist on bare skin. Zhou's models are vaguely punk, but at the same time exquisitely sophisticated, and brought on the runway a collection that results modern, casual and definitely cool.

 

#8 LIAM HODGES

Baggy pants, patchwork, lots of jersey and asymmetrical cuts are keywords for Liam Hodges this season. The designer proposed an innovative take on workwear, impregnated with references to '90s streetstyle, featuring multi-pocket shorts, baseball caps, patches and laces used as belts.

 

#9 JW ANDERSON

An unexpected and exquisite collection, where the designer has taken the myths and characters of his childhood to turn them into an opulent look, elaborate and at the same time naive. Shirts include fantasies with puzzle pieces, golden Egyptian deities dance on pants, aviators and crown-toys graced the heads of the models - in a clear reference to the Little Prince - and bibs overlap shirts similar to paintings aprons.

 

#10 SIBLING

The Sibling crew propels us into a refreshing and summery mood, with a collection that revisits the swimwear combining the beauty of the work made in Italy, the inspiration given by the holiday mood and glamour of Miami. A palette of vibrant and fresh colours, made of celestial, red and white, and then knitwear, towels, many transparencies and bright patches of plush like blooming flowers were the key to a fun and beautifully crafted collection.