The best of London Fashion Week Women’s FW25

Judging by the collections presented this week at the London Fashion Week Women’s FW25, it seems that English fashion has finally awakened from its deep slumber. After all, spring is just around the corner, and we are in the final stretch of the last cold month before the warmth and sunny days make us crave colors and eccentric accessories. However, while creativity and uniqueness were undoubtedly the stars of London’s new collections, the same cannot be said for bright colors. With patterns, palettes, and silhouettes inspired by the underwater world, the Middle Ages, vampires, and even the collegiate style, brands left color behind. On the other hand, the accessories were fun and playful, featuring plush toys and shell-shaped bags. Let’s take a look at the shows that impressed us the most at this LFW Women’s FW25.

1. Richard Quinn

The FW25 collection by Richard Quinn explores femininity through memories and garments as timeless objects. Against a magnificent backdrop featuring a grand green curtain and a carpet of snow, traditional ceremonial gowns graced the runway, marked by the classic romantic twist that the British designer is known for. Floral patterns adorned satin, tulle, and taffeta in voluminous dresses; puffed sleeves, mermaid silhouettes, capes, shimmering stones, and bows were the stars of the show. In addition to embellishing fabrics, enormous red roses decorated the boat neckline of a sheath dress, while pink and white versions were used to highlight the décolleté or waistline. In short, with drapery and appliqués, Pierrot-style collars, and Jackie Kennedy-inspired dresses, Richard Quinn’s FW25 collection was a true exercise in style—perhaps in preparation for a debut in haute couture—with the exceptional participation of 1960s it-girl Penelope Tree.

2. Simone Rocha

If you're looking for ironic yet captivating accessories or shoes, you can’t go wrong with Simone Rocha. Although in recent collections the Irish designer has taken a decidedly dark direction—featuring biker jackets and all-black looks (this time even rugby jerseys embellished with pearls and ruffles appeared)—Rocha’s ultra-feminine, playful, and sentimental spirit still shines through. Pastel pink nightgowns were layered under scarves and long brown fur coats or adorned with black leather harnesses. Belts served as the common thread of the collection, thick and layered on the models' hips as well as on bags and accessories. Vintage-inspired tweed jackets were modernized with fur mini shorts, while thick wool loden coats, parkas, and 1980s-style satin dresses and shirts were given a youthful touch with chains and metal jewelry. Alongside the belts, the rabbit stole the spotlight—a plush handbag available in numerous colors, sizes, and fabrics. The collection’s theme? The most beloved high school archetypes of all time, including emo, tomboy, nerd, rebel, and jock.

3. Dilara Findikoglu

Every Dilara Findikoglu show stands out for its theatricality. In FW25, the designer’s idealized femme fatale transformed into a witch, vampire, mermaid—anything but human. Corsets returned to cinch the models’ waists, this time entirely covered in shells arranged in such a symmetrical pattern that they evoked the eerie resemblance of a human skeleton. Hoods and white shirts evoked the image of a nun—if not for the ultra-mini skirts and silver stiletto heels. Lace, leather inserts, and red brocade exuded the sensuality of Interview with the Vampire, while flowing white and ivory gowns hinted at Renaissance romance. The unexpected appearance of Converse All Stars playfully referenced the costume design of Marie Antoinette. One sheath dress made a particular impact, crafted from flesh-colored leather and entirely covered in red seals, resembling tattoos on the model’s body. Even the use of hair, an artistic trick that designers across fashion capitals are experimenting with in their latest shows, was surprising and original—used to create blonde cape-like tops, corset embellishments, and even garters made of fine black braids.

4. Di Petsa

If Dilara Findikoglu created fantastical characters for FW25, Di Petsa took imagination to the next level, crafting true theatrical costumes. In Reflections of Desire, Greek designer Dimitra Petsa once again explored female sensuality with a renewed political perspective. Drawing from mythology, the new collection delves into historical figures of darkness, from mermaids to witches, from vampiresses to Greek goddesses. Ancient iconography clashed with modern reality through the use of bold sheer fabrics, dynamic silhouettes, and the signature contemporary wet look that has made the designer famous. With this collection, Petsa showcased a newfound maturity and confidence in her values, including her heritage, which she celebrated at the end of the show with a traditional Greek dance.

5. Central Saint Martins MA Fashion

Each year, students from the prestigious MA Fashion program at Central Saint Martins present their collections on the first day of Fashion Week. While every show is exciting—considering that some of the most brilliant designers in history have been trained at this university—this year, the school's new talents truly showcased great potential. From material selection to craftsmanship, as well as the wide range of artistic influences that shaped their work, some students delivered collections ready to secure a spot on the official Fashion Week calendar or, even better, in the most popular fashion stores in central London. The show proved that the greatest ambition for a young designer should not only be to express their creativity but also to develop the right tailoring skills to bring their vision to life in the best possible way.