Is the era of high heels coming to an end?

Carrie Bradshaw's iconic Manolo Blahniks in Sex and the City, Hermès peep-toe pumps, and the Chanel boots from The Devil Wears Prada once dominated the scene, but could they have hinted at the eventual downturn of high heels in the following years? Starting in the 2010s, fashion was abuzz with it-shoes like Alexander McQueen’s Armadillo, Saint Laurent’s Tribute Sandal and Louboutin’s Very Privé Peep-Toe. Yet, this wasn't enough to sustain the popularity of high heels in the streets, which began to diminish. Instead, the fashion spotlight shifted to sportswear and sneakers, driven by collaborations and vintage revivals. Gucci's 2015 backless and furry loafers also meant a turning point. This transformation was accelerated by a growing emphasis on comfort and designs that are both practical and stylish. Not to mention the pandemic and the working from home method further propelled this trend. While Millennials may still cherish the allure of high heels, Gen Z has matured in an era dominated by streetwear. It comes as no surprise that according to data from retail analytics firm Edited, as reported by BoF, «sales of classic stilettos dropped by 12 percent in 2024 compared to the previous year.» Interestingly, the firm has revealed to nss that «in the luxury market, the number of heels currently in stock has increased by 21% compared to this time last year and by 32% compared to 2023. Meanwhile, ballet flats have increased by 92% vs. 2024 and 222% vs. 2023.» 

«The decline in stiletto sales reflects a broader shift toward comfort, versatility, and long-term wearability. Designers are adapting accordingly, with recent runway shows showcasing styles that align more closely with modern streetwear sensibilities than traditional feminine codes» says Isabel Bazzani, Australian luxury buyer and personal shopper based in Paris. «Interestingly, when stilettos do appear on the runway, they often don’t make it to full production and are instead reserved for VIP pre-orders—underscoring their niche status in today’s market. While stilettos remain symbolic of high fashion and occasion dressing, their everyday relevance is diminishing, particularly in France. Today’s consumer, especially the younger, style-conscious demographic, is making pragmatic choices. They’re prioritising pieces that integrate seamlessly into daily life and offer value beyond the aesthetic—fashion that fits their everyday lives, not just the runway,» she adds. 

French footwear label Bobbies has embraced low heels without compromising on style in its latest collections. This season, the brand is showcasing an array of designs including mid-heeled ballet pumps crafted with intricate weaving, navy blue slingback pointed toe mid-heel shoes, mid-heeled slingback pumps, flat sandals, and wedge espadrilles. According to Bobbies, «there is a strong demand for timeless styles such as ballerina flats with flat straps or heels, as well as the loafers that have always been at the heart of our collections. We are also seeing a big trend for boat shoes, which we have developed this season.» Meanwhile, the legendary brand Roger Vivier continues to rely on its iconic Pilgrim buckle and its Jewel Heel Sandals in leather. However, in its summer collection, titled ‘Un Été à Paris,’ standout pieces include raffia mules, Belle Vivier slingback ballerinas with lacquered leather and raffia inserts, Viv' Rangers moccasins in raffia and patent leather mules with 4.5 centimeters high heels. Looking ahead to fall 2025, Roger Vivier's collection features floral embellishments, a design element originating from the 1940s, which also adorns its mules, ballerinas and stilettos.

Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo and Saint Laurent continue to demonstrate their commitment to the essence of their brands by maintaining a focus on high heels. However, Saint Laurent is also betting on versatile options like smooth leather loafers, lido slip-ons, and the Babylone slingback flats in satin crepe. Christian Louboutin offerings include the Tutti Rui sneaker, Chambeliboat moccasin, and Jane ballerina, alongside their signature Miss Z pumps with a 10 centimeter heel. Regarding Christian Louboutin assortment mix, the studio says that «heels continue to be the brand’s signature subcategory, with pumps and heeled sandals making up 73% of its assortment mix. This represents a slight decline of four percentage points compared to last year (77%). The brand has also expanded its ballerina offering, with 38% more options in stock today compared to 2024.» Jimmy Choo's latest collection for the season presents a mix of footwear that caters its DNA. From chic flats to elegant pumps, striking sandals and stilettos, like the Isa 95 black leather pumps recently worn by Kitty Hawthorne, the Alva sandals sported by actress Aimee Lou, the Isa slingback or the stylish Staz sandal 90.

«From my experience working closely with high-net-worth clients and observing both runway direction and consumer demand, I wouldn’t say the stiletto is being replaced but is being recontextualised. We’re seeing a rise in more wearable styles, like kitten heels, sculptural blocks, wedges, and mid-heights, which offer practical appeal without sacrificing design. The Chanel FW25 rounded ball heel is a perfect example of how new shapes are being introduced to refresh the category,» adds Bazzani. Besides the metallic blink mules from Bottega Veneta, leather mules from Jil Sander, and Tod’s ostrich leather loafers with a penny strap adorned with golden annulets as further illustrations of this fashion theory. «Our customers, and French women in general, prefer mid-high heels for comfort and elegance. So they can wear them all day and even at night,» says Bobbies. «Simultaneously, brands are embracing alternatives like retro sneakers, minimalist sandals, and polished flats—ballerinas, loafers, and even Mary Janes—which have all earned their place within the luxury wardrobe. This diversification speaks directly to the needs of modern consumers, who value fashion that works for the pace and rhythm of real life,» concludes Bazzani.