
The paradox of durability in fashion
Grandma's coat vs. polyester knitwear, who wins?
January 23rd, 2025
What if someone told you that the coat inherited from your grandmother, a symbol of Italian craftsmanship, has a durability lower than that of a polyester football jersey designed for just one season? The statement may seem provocative, even absurd, but it’s exactly what European standards defined by the ISO (International Organization for Standardization) and CEN (European Committee for Standardisation) suggest, as they measure fabric resistance based on washing and technical performance. Paradoxically, some high-fashion garments, perceived as long-lasting and inherently valuable, don’t hold up when compared to fast fashion products made from synthetic fibers designed to meet laboratory standards more than our desires. But does it really make sense to evaluate the durability of a garment solely through physical parameters? As Carlo Capasa, president of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, states in an interview with La Repubblica, sustainability in fashion «cannot be based solely on resistance to washing; it must also be emotional». A garment is more than an object to be tested: it is memory, style, a story of the person who chose and wore it. Capasa cites the case of a lace dress: fragile by nature, yet capable of being passed down through generations like a family heirloom, a precious witness. Conversely, a polyester jersey, no matter how resistant to dozens of wash cycles, is likely to be discarded after just one season, a victim of planned obsolescence.
The tension between technical function and emotional value was already anticipated by Roland Barthes in his essay The Fashion System: «A garment is a discourse, a story we wear». If clothing reflects our choices, emotions, and aspirations, reducing it to an algorithm of resistance is like mistaking a diary for a physics manual: a denial of its cultural and symbolic essence. European durability standards impose criteria such as resistance to abrasion, washing, and light. They seem designed to measure the efficiency of synthetic materials—primarily polyester and nylon—while natural fabrics, such as wool, silk, or cotton, don’t always pass the test. Yet these materials embody the charm of true quality, the kind that is cared for and preserved.
@sophiaxverde It’s all about consumption habits ppl let’s break it down: why is fast fashion such a large industry? becaude it relies on people purchasing micro trends over and over again. I think you could argue that fast fashion brands create the demand so that we continue to buy. And in many cases, these fast fashion giants will cut corners to get a lower cost which is why you see: cheap synthetic fabrics + construction AND garment workers not getting paid fairly The fast fashion industry is a problem, and it’s fueled by overconsumption. That’s why I will argue that people buying fast fashion out of necessity (OR buying a few pieces that they know they will wear for a long time) is a way more sustainable purchase than overconsuming a bunch of secondhand fashion that only gets worn a few times (and yes, I’m guilty of this). We need to change how we consume clothing, just as much as the fast fashion brands need to change how they produce. What do you think? #fastfashion #sustainablefashion #secondhandfashion #shopconsciously #consciousconsumer original sound - Taylor Dean
The contemporary obsession with mechanical resistance risks contributing to the success of fast fashion in the market. Behind the rhetoric of sustainability lies the promotion of synthetic fibers, seemingly robust but detrimental to the environment. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, every wash of garments made from synthetic fabrics releases microplastics that poison the seas. True sustainability requires seemingly counterintuitive choices: natural materials, fragile but ecological, may perform worse in technical reports but are less harmful to the planet. Another crucial point is repairability. Organic fibers lend themselves to manual interventions, an ancient knowledge that keeps them alive for decades. A wool coat can be mended, revitalized, and passed down, while a polyester jacket, once damaged, becomes waste. What, then, is the value of durability that excludes the possibility of regeneration? In an age of turnover and rampant consumerism, learning to value the marks of time on garments means relearning patience.
@theraisareyes Replying to @Maxine i’m going to make a YouTube video on this to explore it more deeply #underconsumption #underconsumptioncore #capsulewardrobe #capsulecloset #chic original sound - Raisa
European regulations redefining the lifecycle of garments risk paradoxically stifling the excellence of craftsmanship. Wool, silk, and linen are penalized compared to synthetic fabrics, whose robustness does not translate into actual longevity. A fine coat, if cared for, can last generations even if it fails a laboratory test; the boom in vintage and second-hand fashion proves this: delicate and precious garments are being recirculated, welcomed by those who appreciate their history. According to ThredUp, the second-hand market will double by 2030, driven by growing environmental awareness and a quest for uniqueness. In response to these trends, fashion must create new standards that recognize that the lifecycle of a coat is not just a matter of material resistance but also of emotional, cultural, and sentimental longevity.