Helsinki, and how decentralised fashion weeks are changing the fashion landscape

When it comes to Scandinavian fashion, Copenhagen often dominates the spotlight, largely thanks to the growing success of its fashion week in recent years. A bit further north, overlooking the shores of the Baltic Sea, lies what could be considered the more radical and avant-garde sister of Nordic style: Helsinki. The Finnish capital perfectly embodies the striking contrasts that define the local aesthetic, where the brutalist architecture of Merihaka coexists with the romantic elegance of Esplanadi’s gardens, just minutes apart. This duality was especially evident during this year’s edition of Fashion in Helsinki, held from May 21 to 24, which focused on the most experimental and forward-thinking practices of Finnish designers. The event’s schedule brought together emerging talents, established brands, and key institutions from the fields of art and design, fostering a constant dialogue between fashion and art through runway shows, exhibitions, pop-ups, and activations across the city. As Martta Louekari, Communication Director of Fashion in Helsinki, noted: «Finnish designers consistently push the boundaries between fashion and art. Finnish fashion favors quality over quantity: it’s a celebration of freedom and personal style.» And this is precisely where the strength of Finnish fashion lies: beyond the codes of tradition and elitism that have long defined the Big Four. This year's edition, open, youth-driven, and staged in public streets and squares, proved that fashion beyond the global capitals can be truly democratic, not a replica of outdated systems struggling to stay afloat. 

To see how it went, here is a recap of the best moments of Fashion in Helsinki 2025.

Rolf Ekroth @ Merihaka 

Fashion in Helsinki kicked off with one of the most compelling shows of the week, set against the brutalist backdrop of one of the city’s most iconic locations: Merihaka. Five Finnish brands – Industry Muscle x Latimmier, Hedvig, Linda Kokkonen, Sini Saavaala, and Rolf Ekroth – showcased their collections in a cinematic, almost post-apocalyptic atmosphere that amplified the tension between urban space and creative vision. Among them, Rolf Ekroth stood out with a collection built around the tension of opposites. On one hand, classic menswear tailoring that echoed Italian sartorialism; on the other, fluid silhouettes and genderless garments adorned with floral elements that symbolically reclaimed the harsh setting. Ekroth, who helms an independent label deeply rooted in Finnish culture, operates at the intersection of utilitarianism and nostalgia, with a design practice anchored in traditional craft. His work oscillates between past and present, masculine and feminine.

Amos Rex SS25 by Minttu Vesala 

In the Finnish fashion landscape, Minttu Vesala is a household name. A model, curator, creative, and longtime muse in the ongoing dialogue between Demna and Balenciaga, Vesala stepped away from the spotlight to focus on curating one of Fashion in Helsinki’s most pivotal events this year. Aligned with this year’s curatorial focus on fashion as art, many happenings migrated into cultural institutions. At the center of it all was the Amos Rex, the contemporary art museum in the heart of Helsinki, which hosted Amos Rex SS25 on May 23. The event was more than a show: it was a visual manifesto featuring over 50 emerging Finnish designers, from students to rising stars and established names. The installation highlighted the diversity of voices within Finland’s fashion ecosystem, exploring material experimentation and conceptual research in an open-access setting at Lasipalatsi Square. As Vesala put it: «The new wave of Finnish fashion is independent, progressive, and boundary-breaking. It doesn’t come from privilege or affluence, but from creativity, courage, and freedom. We dress for necessity and for ourselves, not for others. Style is the canvas of our identity, our personal fingerprint. It’s the fastest way we connect with the community.»

Näytös25 @ Aalto University

For Aalto University students, this year’s graduation show, Näytös25, will go down as one of the most memorable yet. The 2025 edition reached an unprecedented scale, with 45 thesis collections showcased on the runway. Students from both the Bachelor’s in Fashion and the Master’s in Fashion, Clothing, and Textile Design programs took part in the showcase. The awards panel featured an international jury including Krzysztof J. Lukasik, Design Director at Bottega Veneta; Malene Kristiansen, Professor at the Royal Danish Academy and head of the Textile Design program; and Alla Eisenberg, professor at Parsons School of Design and a researcher at Aalto’s Department of Design. With a strong focus on knitwear and textile innovation, all 45 collections reflected a high level of maturity and deep awareness of today’s global fashion discourse. Standouts included Markus Anttonen’s subversive reinterpretation of traditional Finnish knitwear and Vanessa Agostini’s sculptural layering, inspired by Japanese volumes.

Social Fabric @ EMMA Museum

As part of Fashion in Helsinki, the EMMA (Espoo Museum of Modern Art) launched a new exhibition tackling one of the industry’s most urgent topics: the relationship between fashion, sustainability, and cultural practice. Titled "Social Fabric", the show brings together contemporary designers and visual artists from across the Nordics and Northern Europe, all exploring the social fabric – both literal and symbolic – woven by fashion. Closely aligned with this year’s emphasis on fashion as art, the exhibition offers a critical look at how garments, materials, and everyday dressing rituals shape the way we live and interact. Fashion is presented not merely as an aesthetic expression, but as a tool of social connection. While collective consumption still reflects social status, new conscious-making practices frame fashion as an act of activism, solidarity, and resistance. Featuring works by Duran Lantik, the new creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier, and emerging talents like Abbe Mandegar, the exhibition tells highly personal stories rooted in the socioeconomic contexts of each contributor.

By Hinders' "Growing Pains" collection

In the fashion world, it’s common for emerging designers to relocate to international capitals in pursuit of bigger opportunities. But it’s far less common to see these talents return home to build something from scratch. That’s exactly the unconventional path taken by Jonathan Ingerberg, a Central Saint Martins alum who moved back to Helsinki two years ago to launch his label, By Hinders. On May 23, during Fashion in Helsinki, the brand unveiled "Growing Pains", its fourth collection, marking the beginning of a new chapter. Presented as an intimate and thoughtful installation, the collection explored transitional states through textile and silhouette, while reaffirming its commitment to sustainable production and a deeply rooted Made-in-Finland ethos. Ingerberg’s design philosophy is driven by personal narrative and emotional honesty. As he put it: «Be yourself. It sounds cliché, but it’s one of the truest things I’ve learned. When I started telling stories about my life in Finland, my perspective, our shared cultural background, that’s when people really connected. These are lived experiences, and only you can tell them. Staying true to your roots and being sincere is everything.»