What did Zelensky wear for the Pope's funeral?

As world leaders gathered in St. Peter’s Square for the solemn funeral of Pope Francis, attention was not only focused on political discussions behind closed doors, but also on the symbolic gestures expressed through clothing. While President Trump caught many eyes with his blue suit, among those present, it was Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky who stood out not for eccentricity, but for a new variation on the military-inspired look he has worn since the beginning of his country's conflict with Russia. Zelensky’s attire had previously come under the spotlight during the unpleasant episode of his visit to the White House, where, among other things, a report from the MAGA wing mocked him for not wearing a suit instead of his polo shirt decorated only with the Ukrainian trident. However, those who follow the evolution of the conflict with more impartiality than the Trump administration know that Zelensky gave up formal suits to show solidarity with his country's population and to be "at war" just like them. "I will wear a suit after the end of this war," the president said at the time. "Maybe something like yours. Maybe something better, I don’t know. Maybe something cheaper." This choice influenced Zelensky’s outfit for the Pope’s funeral, where the crowd welcomed him with huge applause and where he wore a curious all-black ensemble that nevertheless drew some attention. But who created it?

As explained by WWD, the strict Vatican dress code for papal funerals required a dark suit with a long black tie, with no decorations except for Vatican honors. While maintaining his aesthetic line, Zelensky almost fully adhered to the protocol: instead of a classic formal suit, the Ukrainian president chose a black military-style field jacket specially designed for him by Viktor Anisimov, a Ukrainian designer known for his commitment to sustainable and symbolic fashion. The jacket, buttoned up to the neck with chest pockets, was paired with a black shirt buttoned up to the neck, straight black trousers, and leather shoes. A look that, as the magazine explained, was the result of a deliberate choice. Before the funeral, the president’s team consulted Anisimov to develop formal garments that maintained Zelensky’s austere and military-like aesthetic without being overly "ceremonial." The designer thus created a "capsule collection" tailored for the president, made up of about two dozen pieces including shirts, field jackets, turtlenecks, and coats. All items were made from certified natural fabrics such as linen, cotton, and even nettle. The creation of a complete wardrobe (this being the first time Anisimov, whose brand was founded 25 years ago, worked with Zelensky) represented an opportunity to "create an image that reflects the strength, dignity, and modernity of Ukraine."

Anisimov’s selection was not accidental. Despite the difficulties of the conflict, the designer continued to keep his business alive in Kyiv, contributing to the country's economy and supporting patriotic initiatives. This is also why the garments made by Anisimov for Zelensky are not available for sale — but they certainly represent a great opportunity to shed light on Ukraine’s fashion industry, which is resisting the hardships of war also thanks to the work of Zelensky and his wife Olena Zelenska, who launched, in February 2024, an economic platform called “Made in Ukraine”, aimed at facilitating and assisting dialogue between local goods producers (including fashion) and the government to foster business growth paths. "I think it’s a great idea: starting to move away from the usual image, but not radically, because the war continues," wrote Oleksandr Sokolovsky, president of the All-Ukrainian Association of Employers of Light Industry, on Facebook. Thus, Zelensky’s decision to honor Vatican expectations without completely abandoning his wartime aesthetic symbolized how the country is getting back on its feet: still at war, but confident enough to introduce subtle variations into the highly symbolic style of its leader. Judging by how the president was attacked by Russian media, who mocked Zelensky for his informality, the message clearly hit its mark.