It's gorpcore season

Back in 2017, the American magazine The Cut coined a new word to define the rise of a type of aesthetic made of bulky puffer jackets, fleece in all shapes, fabrics and technical details. The term gorpcore thus went to identify a trend born and spread between niche and sector brands, to land in fashion houses and on their catwalks.

The word gorpcore refers to the colloquial way in which the trail mix is commonly called - a snack consisting of muesli, dried fruit and nuts, created as a food to be consumed while hiking - namely "Good Ol 'Raisins and Peanuts". From an aesthetic point of view, it's a type of clothing that draws inspiration from the world of utility wear, with a primary focus on the functionality of the garments, almost all belonging to the sphere of outerwear.

Brain Dead x ROA SS19

Nike ACG FW19

And Wander

Veilance by Vincent Fournier

Arc'teryx

Vintage The North Face

The strength of this trend lies above all in its authenticity. Despite some luxury reiterations, in fact, the OG actors of this aesthetic remain the brands that first built, nurtured and made this imaginary popular, such as The North Face, Patagonia, Arc'teryx, Stone Island, Nike ACG. Given the success of the trend, it was the big names in fashion, especially those with a particular fascination with the obsessions of the streetwear world, such as Balenciaga or Acne Studios, who brought inevitably revisited versions of the trend on their catwalks.

Brain Dead x ROA SS19

HYKE x The North Face FW18

Gramicci Fall 2020

And Wander

The North Face x Brain Dead Fall 2020

Nike ACG FW18

Gramicci FW20

Nike ACG Spring 2019

Napa by Martine Rose FW20

Jil Sander+ FW19

UMAMIISM FW19

Another very important aspect of this phenomenon is its being a complete trend. Gorpcore is not just a fashion made of items and cannot be defined only through the garments that identify it: it is a fashion linked to experience, to the physical translation and to the implementation of what that trend represents. Gorpcore has led to the rediscovery of the coolness of going to the mountains, hiking and climbing - even in the summer - the functional and practical component of the items has generated a new interest in outdoor activities, to be experienced in the snow, in the mountains, finally far from super cosy wooden cabins. What distinguishes gorpcore is not so much its aesthetics, but the imagery to which it is linked, that shared language that is the true appeal for brands and consumers. Similarly to what defines the phenomenon of New Luxury or the rediscovery of Mediterranean Aesthetics, the strength and success of a trend are no longer linked to its more superficial and immediate facet but are instead determined by the type of experience it conveys, referring to values and imaginaries shared by brands and consumers.