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The great comeback of animal print.

In the footsteps of indie sleaze, a neolithic aesthetic.

The great comeback of animal print. In the footsteps of indie sleaze, a neolithic aesthetic.

"Leopard print is a neutral color" seems to have become the new favorite catchphrase in the fashion world, a statement that has made its way on all social media platforms before finally taking over the catwalks. Anticipated a few months ago by the return of the "indie sleaze", animal print has officially taken back the title of unshakable trend, a graphic that transcends decades more than any other fashion. What does the comeback of leopard print at Fashion Week tell us? The same message left by red in previous seasons: in a time of uncertainties, marked by crises and rethinking, luxury brands prefer to steer towards safe routes, already taken. Just like shades of purple, burgundy, and fiery red were brought back from the past in the form of lace and silk, in slip dresses and logo-free accessories, leopard print fits perfectly into the ambivalent narrative of contemporary fashion: captivating, yes, but with a look towards the past. The animal prints that have been presented by brands in these past weeks embody the remnants of the 1950s divas that were found in iconic looks, but gloriously disheveled, by the pop stars of the 2000s, bringing back a trend that has been worn out and returning it to its rightful fame. We are facing a true maculate showdown. It is not known whether the rise of the "mob wife" aesthetic has influenced the presence of leopard print in the new collections, although Google data shows that searches for animal print reached a peak of +263% at the end of January 2024, coinciding with the moment when "The Sopranos"-style fur coats became extremely popular on TikTok. At Alaïa, artistic director Pieter Mulier opted for classics, with soft spotted coats and body-con dresses in orange leopard print, while at Blumarine, the nostalgia of a pair of printed tights in full indie sleaze style was seen. The brand's new designer, Walter Chiapponi, also revisited the print in fiery red at Versace, where the pattern was mixed with the famous Baroque print. Among those who took the term "reinterpretation of the trend" literally stands out Glenn Martens, who for Diesel shredded the animal print to add it to coats and silk shirts with flowers. Dolce&Gabbana, who for FW24 "Tuxedo" explored the archetypes of the masculine and feminine wardrobe, dressing them with sensuality, brought a femme fatale to the Interpol wearing a leopard print outfit from head to toe and a mesh top covering her face, while Francesco Risso of Marni presented neolithic looks inside a white cave. So far, the current fashion month is standing out for the tireless strength with which it roars in the face of difficulties, who knows if Paris will have the same desire to show its fangs.