«You need a lot of self-control and a good fortune teller,» interview with Alice Vaillant

Alice Vaillant's collections draw inspiration from architecture, French sartorial traditions and contemporary femininity, but above all from the world of classical dance. The designer, born in 1995, grew up in an environment surrounded by ballet shoes and tutus thanks to her grandmother, the director of a theatre company who had turned her own apartment into an atelier for stage costumes. Before launching her eponymous brand in 2019, Vaillant danced for seven years at the Opera Ballet School. Every experience related to the world of ballet has had a significant impact on the artistic direction of her brand, an observation that the designer shares with us during our interview, but which is evident in every project of the brand. Soft palettes ranging from blush pink to nude, from transparencies to plunging necklines materialise in the form of enveloping silhouettes. They take shape thanks to additions of feathered volumes, three-dimensional weaves, details that make each look rich in optical depth. «My collections are inspired by the interplay between rigidity and movement,» says the designer. «I work with the layering of materials, the mix of technical pieces and free flowing styles, with contrasts, whether they be in colour, shape, or cut.» Of Vaillant's latest collections, the fiery red leather looks, the tops in transparent taffeta knotted at the neck, the berets and pendant bras leave a mark, but above all, the nonchalant energy with which they take to the catwalk, as if the brand was not born just five years ago. As Vaillant tells us, the imposing sartorial history of the capital of Haute Couture does not intimidate her; on the contrary: Paris is the best city to start from.

The Vaillant woman is the typical Parisian. «Active, sensual, and strong,» a woman who knows how to use her dress both as a shield and as a weapon. «Sometimes my own insecurities help me create strong silhouettes,» comments the designer. Like her clothes, divided between provocation and protection, the designer juggles two very different roles within the company. She doesn't always have to play the role of the stylist; sometimes she has to put on a suit and tie. «The hardest part for me is handling both the creative and the business part by myself. It takes a lot of self-control and a good fortune-teller because there are always ups and downs,» she adds jokingly. Launching a brand in Paris has allowed her to grow rather quickly thanks to the endless opportunities the city offers, but to advance in the French fashion Monopoly, she first had to learn the rules. «I think Paris is one of the best cities to start a brand, but you have to understand how the system works, which can be hard.»

Just as the world of classical dance has left a tangible imprint on Vaillant's artistic direction, the brand's sensual and avant-garde cut can rely on the designer’s technical know-how. She took her first steps into the world of fashion alongside mentors Jean Paul Gaultier and the Botter duo in the atelier of Nina Ricci, and found in Calais lace a romantic bridge between French tradition and textile experimentation. This was the key that allowed her to reach a wide customer base without compromising creativity. «I really want to expand the brand's expertise with the Atelier D'art and French craftsmanship,» she says, convinced that the most important thing for an independent brand that wants to succeed in the industry is «to create a balance between pieces that are wearable but also different.» Certainly, in projecting Vaillant among the leading names in emerging fashion, the collaboration with UGG in 2023 played a significant role, a partnership that combined pom-poms with stiletto heels for an adorable oxymoron, in true Vaillant style. «Partnerships can help grow a brand, but they are not the key,» counters the designer. «It can be really interesting to work with the identity and history of another brand, but I believe the most important factor for success is to develop a relationship with customers, listen to them, and have a connection with our time and the way people are buying now.»

Apart from the Parisian woman who runs carefree from one commitment to another in stiletto heels, Vaillant dresses international stars like Dua Lipa, Bella Hadid, Rihanna, and Lisa from Blackpink, but dreams of being able to design costumes for theatre companies like Batsheva, Kidd Pivot, or La Horde. After running into the fortunate rise of the ballet-core aesthetic, Vaillant's future objectives take shape outside the endless cycle of trends. Adhering to passing fashions has never been of interest to the brand, the founder tells us, but exploring how women feel in a dress is. It's a matter of intuition, Vaillant adds. «I believe trends are an important part of fashion, but they don't influence my creative direction: I follow my instinct when creating my collections: the goal is to have a perfect mix between the two.» Despite her balancing act between opposites, the successes achieved in recent seasons demonstrate how Vaillant was able to find her centre of gravity. Just like on pointe.

CREDITS 

Photographer Eseniya Araslanova

MUAH Louisa Trapier