«Fashion should evoke emotion and transport people to a dreamlike world», interviewing Susan Fang

Attending Susan Fang's debut at Milan Fashion Week felt like stepping, for half an hour, into a dreamlike and bucolic paradise in the heart of rural China, far from the chaos and frenzy of the Lombard capital during fashion month. It was precisely this distance (from home) that served as the leitmotif of the Chinese brand's FW25 collection, presented on March 2nd in Milan through the “Supported by Dolce&Gabbana” initiative. SUSAN FANG's quintessential essence was also evident in the choice of location, where iridescent flower sculptures covered the ceiling of the historic Maison's headquarters, creating an atmosphere suspended between dream and reality. Beyond the ethereal aesthetics of the show, the designer's debut on the Milanese calendar marked a significant moment for Chinese fashion on the international scene. Dolce&Gabbana’s support went beyond providing a platform like Milan Fashion Week; it strengthened the bond between Italian craftsmanship and Chinese culture, fostering an exchange that transcends the mere presentation of a collection.

The collaboration, born from an agreement between Italy and China to promote emerging Chinese designers, allowed Fang to access crucial resources and expertise to bring her creative vision to life. But don't take her as a newbie, this was not the brand’s first experience on the runway: every season, SUSAN FANG’s show is one of the most anticipated events of the Shanghai Fashion Week. Last year, the designer also debuted at London Fashion Week, a city particularly meaningful to her, as she studied at Central Saint Martins. It was there that, right after graduating, she founded her eponymous brand. «Central Saint Martins encouraged us to develop our own voice rather than follow trends, and that mindset still drives my design process today. Every collection starts with a story, an emotion, and a deep exploration of materials and construction», Fang explained. The Air•Memory collection tells a story — or perhaps the story — of the Chinese designer, her relationship with her mother, and the distance from home. 

Air•Memory is one of the most personal collections in the brand’s history. The designer sought to explore themes related to family, intimate memories, and cultural heritage. Among her main sources of inspiration, the maternal figure stands out with particular intensity: «My mother has been a profound influence on my life and career, and this collection is a tribute to her artistic dreams and the memories of her happiest memories, including her farming childhood in Zhejiang». Fang’s mother’s works were directly incorporated into some of the looks: several pieces were transformed into sequin dresses, tights, and long outerwear in vivid colors, evoking natural landscapes reminiscent of Monet’s impressionist style.

The collection’s personal dimension intertwines with a strong cultural component, evident in the inclusion of handcrafted elements created by a group of mothers from the Zhuang minority in Guangxi, who designed the Bubble Dandelion decorations. Further reinforcing the collection’s intimate nature was the collaboration with the designer’s husband, Orelio De Jonghe, who currently leads the brand’s accessories division. His contribution made the creation of the opening look of the show possible: the Bubble Dandelion dress, a 3D-printed gown that blends traditional techniques with new technologies. «Fashion, for me, is an intersection of art, craftsmanship, and technology. Many of our accessories are handcrafted, but we also explore innovative techniques like 3D printing and laser cutting to push the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship», Fang explained. After all, one of the brand’s strengths lies in its ability to translate an ultra-feminine aesthetic into three-dimensional accessories that often resemble miniature sculptures; the entire eyewear line inspired by wildflowers is the prime example.

SUSAN FANG remains one of those brands with such a strong and personal stylistic vision that it becomes immediately recognizable, especially in a contemporary landscape marked by continuous references and reinterpretations of archival aesthetics. The core concept of the Chinese brand remains surprisingly immune to external influences and fleeting trends. Fang herself has explained that the brand’s aesthetic is rooted in the belief that fashion should first and foremost evoke emotions and transport the wearer into a dreamlike, almost suspended dimension: «It’s less about a fixed aesthetic and more about an emotional experience.» It is no coincidence that at the heart of her creations lies a sense of lightness and freedom, expressed through fluid silhouettes, delicate colors, and intricate textures that reveal a deep and unconscious harmonic connection with nature, people, and the universe.

While recognizing the importance of evolving and experimenting with new techniques, for Fang, the essence of the brand—linked to this ethereal narrative, intimate, and driven by the pursuit of harmonious joy—will always remain intact. More than a static aesthetic, SUSAN FANG embodies a creative vision that reflects an approach common among many Asian brands: maintaining a strong identity while adapting strategies and language to cultural targets and relevant subcultures. This concept is also reflected in the brand’s collaborations with clients, such as Jisoo of Blackpink, who partnered with SUSAN FANG for a custom-made dress for her solo debut with Flower. The dress seamlessly integrated both the concept of the song and the essence of the Chinese brand. «I love that our brand resonates with artists and creatives who appreciate craftsmanship and storytelling [...] The ideal SUSAN FANG customer is someone who sees fashion as an extension of their emotions—someone who values beauty, individuality, and artistry», Fang explained. When envisioning a global ambassador, the designer imagines someone capable of embodying both grace and strength, like Tilda Swinton or the Chinese actress Zhang Ziyi, renowned for her role in Memoirs of a Geisha.

Even within a creative vision that seems to emerge from an Impressionist painting, not everything is a field of flowers. Since its founding in 2017, SUSAN FANG has remained a completely independent brand, a choice that, on one hand, guarantees total creative freedom but, on the other, presents daily challenges in business management. The designer has emphasized that the true balance lies in finding a meeting point between artistic vision, production, and business strategy without compromising the brand’s integrity or the artisanal quality of its creations. Despite these challenges, the brand’s success is measured not only by international recognition but also by the most intimate moments: «Every time I see someone wearing our designs especially in their celebratory moments of wedding and birthday and feeling a deep connection to them, that is the most fulfilling part of this journey that we can be part of their important moment in life, or bringing them daily happiness.»

The brand’s growth has followed a rapid global expansion, moving from the Shanghai calendar to Milan in record time. However, Fang’s intention is not to relocate the brand to Europe but to maintain it as a bridge between East and West, bringing together diverse traditions and fostering cultural dialogue through fashion. Every runway show, whether in Asia or Europe, becomes an opportunity to convey a positive and universal message capable of transcending geographical boundaries. This goal no longer seems so distant, considering the brand’s latest collaborations. With the “Supported by Dolce&Gabbana” project, Fang worked closely with Katie Grand, one of the most influential figures in the Western fashion system. As the designer stated, collaborating with a visionary like Grand was an extraordinary learning opportunity: working with a professional of such caliber helped refine and redefine the brand’s creative direction in a natural and innovative way. It truly feels like witnessing the early chapters of the brand’s history, painted in infinite shades of pink, both feminine and fantastical. The strength of SUSAN FANG lies in its authenticity, which, while innovative, remains always true to its origins, whether creative or historical: «It’s about constantly pushing boundaries while staying true to the brand's core vision.»