«I’m inspired by modern women’s free spirit», interview with Mark Gong

The pandemic might be something of the past, but it once was a major catalyst in fashion. At the time, because the conditions did not allow it, brands dusted off their storytelling to hide behind the runway— which has now become a seasonal routine as an almost muscle-memory response to FOMO. It’s as if fashion has lost its ability to make us dream. It is not a problem that concerns every brand, though; some of them got it, and no matter how much time might have passed, they keep on delivering. Prada was first and foremost with The Show That Never Happened, the SS21 collection (and also Raf Simons’ debut as co-creative director), which took shape through multiple fashion films directed by five creatives, including Juergen Teller and Willy Vanderperre. Next to Mrs. Miuccia’s brand was Jonathan Anderson, the dream weaver of everyday life, who presented his Loewe SS21 menswear collection inside a box. That period also sparked a vast discussion on the evolution of the fashion calendar, with some predicting that runway shows might cease to exist in a post-Covid world. But is it really so unthinkable that something could pause the world, yet seemingly not stop the fashion industry? Among the designers who continue to invest their maximum effort in crafting a fashion show, Mark Gong stands out as someone who still makes us dream.

His latest collections draw inspiration from Sex and the City, reinterpreting its iconic female characters for the modern woman. The SS24 season channeled Samantha Jones with bold power dressing: sharp tailoring, daring cutouts, and an office-inspired setting radiating confidence. The FW24 collection paid homage to Carrie Bradshaw and Miranda Hobbes, celebrating female friendship through plush fur coats, deconstructed suiting, and playful mini-dresses. In his latest collection for SS25, presented last September at Shanghai Fashion Week, the designer turned to Charlotte York, blending sophisticated femininity with modernity: pastel knit sets, gingham silks, and structured silhouettes softened by delicate embellishments. Beyond aesthetics, Mark Gong has an innate talent for playing with emotions, effortlessly pressing the right buttons. His work is a perfect dance between raw and authentic moments—like his evocative show invitation featuring text messages between friends, with exchanges weighted by the emotional burden of rescuing each other from a toxic relationship. A dialogue that mirrors the complexities of Miranda and Carrie, two characters forever intertwined in the chaos of love and self-discovery. Through these intimate exchanges, Gong raises profound and often unspoken questions about perfectionism. It’s as if he’s inviting us not just to watch, but to feel, question, and reflect.

Shanghai and New York each have a unique creative soul. How do these two cities influence your vision? Do they clash or complement each other in your designs?

Shanghai, with its rich cultural heritage, allows me to incorporate elegance and delicacy into my work. New York, on the other hand, with its free spirit and avant-garde attitude, gives my designs a bold and unrestrained style. These two worlds don’t clash but rather merge, shaping the unique fashion language of MARK GONG.

Your work often oscillates between rebellion and refinement. How do you balance this contrast?

My creations are inspired by the free spirit and rebellious attitude of modern women, emphasizing craftsmanship and tailoring. I want each piece to allow them to express their individuality without being confined by labels. Through bold silhouettes and delicate floral craftsmanship, integrated with high tailoring techniques, I strive to define the unmistakable aesthetic of the Gong Girl.

Every season, your pre-show rehearsal videos with the models go viral, capturing raw, intimate, and electric moments. How important is it for you to maintain full control of your narrative in a world oversaturated with content?

In the era of social media, owning your narrative is crucial. I'm glad that people can feel the emotions and stories behind the brand through these videos. I love sharing the backstage adrenaline with everyone.

Your runway shows often resemble performance art, creating feminine universes from “The Heartbreak Club” to “Marry? Me?”. Do you see the runway as a stage for storytelling or as a medium for cultural critique?

My shows are a unique form of storytelling. I communicate a narrative to the audience through clothing and performance, aiming to foster connections and spark conversations about the themes I explore in my collections.

Your recent collections have paid tribute to iconic characters like Samantha Jones, Carrie Bradshaw, and Charlotte York. Now that Sex and the City has come to an end, should we expect another cinematic-inspired saga, or are you leaving us guessing about what’s next?

(Laughs) The FW25 collection is coming. There’s still so much in store; get ready to be surprised!

Beyond your iconic lineup of Gong Girls, is there anyone else you dream of dressing? Who are you currently obsessed with?

Taylor Swift, designing for her is my ultimate dream.

We often reflect on what we leave behind. What are you carrying forward in this Year of the Snake, both personally and creatively?

Freedom, independence, and confidence.