The reinvention of posh according to Diesel FW25

A huge white inflatable sculpture entirely covered in graffiti towers over the FW25 venue of Diesel: it is the largest installation of its kind ever created, featuring the work of over 7,000 artists, both experts and amateurs in graffiti art, who were given total creative freedom. The inflatable sculpture, the walls, and the painted canvases, created in collaboration with some of the participants of the Diesel Global Street Art Contest last autumn, once again highlight Diesel’s commitment to democracy in a project that, for creative director Glenn Martens, fully represents the inclusive and unifying spirit of the brand. «We gave the global collective total creative freedom,» commented the designer, «this is true Diesel democracy.» The brand is now known for its sensational sets—last time, the entire room was covered in denim—and once again, this was met with great enthusiasm by all attendees. However, while the FW25 set might suggest an urban collection deeply rooted in city street style, this time, the brand, which has long drawn inspiration from youth culture, has decided to push beyond its comfort zone. The new Diesel silhouettes can be found in the wardrobes of an aristocratic crowd, described in the show notes as «elevated yet deconstructed.» Because once inside the Diesel universe—made of raves, parties, uniqueness, and artistry—refined taste must reinvent itself. 

In Diesel’s new vision, utility is elevated, and posh is torn to shreds: in a game of customization and elevation, the roles are reversed. Knitwear, particularly houndstooth and bouclé, has been targeted, ripped from tradition, and transformed into rebellious pieces like ultra-low-rise skirts and A-line dresses made of entirely distressed and transparent fabric. Tweed, a revelation for both the brand and Glenn Martens, usually carries a decadent aura, but here it shines electrifyingly thanks to metallic inserts, appearing on both women's coats and men's suits. Beyond knitwear, textile elevation in Diesel's FW25 collection also extends to denim, the brand’s long-time signature. This time, it appears glossy, plasticised on pants, corsets, and utility jackets. Elements of urban culture, such as biker jackets, are adorned with leather ruffles created using a boiling technique to add three-dimensionality—an ironic take on personalisation and elevation that adds another layer of richness to an already ambitious collection. For Diesel and Glenn Martens, fashion is democratic, but here, nothing—not even the placement of buttons—has been left to chance. 

Just as Glenn Martens has previously shown garments inside out, deconstructed jackets and coats to expose their linings and padding, here, outerwear drapes over the shoulders like shawls, and quilted jackets have been pierced to reveal the padding. At the heart of the collection, an explosion of color brings a pop twist to the show, with vibrant shades of acid yellow and orange further emphasising the textures of each look. This bold palette introduces a moment of fun on the runway: models, wearing sweaters with fur collars, have a spray-painted smile across their mouths. Could they be clowns, subtly alluding to the so-called circus of fashion? In the final segment of the show, Diesel returns to its signature blue denim, appearing as bumster jeans (ultra-low-rise pants that expose part of the lower back) paired with adjustable underwear. Instead of toning down the boldness of the piece, Glenn Martens and stylist Ursina Gysi amplified it, adding bandage tops printed with shirt graphics on the chest. 

Once again, Diesel has introduced a new range of accessories that are set to become must-haves among young brand enthusiasts. The Double D bag has been reinterpreted with the addition of bouclé, while the unisex Load-D and Flag-D bags make their debut: the former, oval-shaped, features two Diesel logo Ds on its closure; the latter, large and soft, has a faux pony-hair strap. Footwear for both men and women—from chunky-soled ankle boots to slippers, stiletto boots to wedge heels—matches the key fabrics of the collection, covered in distressed houndstooth, bouclé, and denim. The most surprising addition to the FW25 accessories lineup is eyewear: while in past collections Diesel sunglasses drew inspiration from the ‘90s, with sleek metallic frames reminiscent of rave culture, this time, the brand takes a leap further back to land in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Silver remains a dominant color in the line, but in the new Liquifie-D series, oversized and irregular frames come in shades that the brand itself describes as «glue-y.» A bold stylistic statement that will need to win over fans of Diesel’s wraparound sunglasses. 

All elements of Diesel’s FW25 collection, from eveningwear to the reinvention of houndstooth, to ultra-vintage-inspired accessories, confirm that we are witnessing a new chapter for the brand. A page in Glenn Martens’ artistic direction where the future takes inspiration from past eras to find alternatives to contemporary fashion trends, where the concept of refinement is challenged by the brand’s urban aesthetic. As a testament to Diesel’s commitment to democratic fashion, on February 27, an exclusive capsule collection will be launched, featuring select Diesel pieces transformed by six international graffiti artists who contributed to the show’s set design. On a statement-making stage—the largest graffiti artwork ever created—Diesel reaffirms that fashion and art can still be democratic: all it takes is opening one’s eyes and listening to the new voices of the industry.