
Melania Trump, new fashion icon or mirror of political tensions?
When the choice of a designer becomes a public statement
January 21st, 2025
Between the scandalous and very serious Nazi salute by Elon Musk and the presence of Bernard Arnault and his children in the front row, Donald Trump's inauguration ceremony held yesterday at the Capitol in Washington made headlines. But one thing (or rather, one outfit) particularly caught the attention of the spectators: that of First Lady Melania Trump, especially the hat that completed her look. The navy blue ensemble adorned with the famous Geneviève de Fontenay-style hat that the American First Lady wore last night is a customized creation by New York designer Adam Lippes, whose brand is known for reflecting a sophisticated vision of American sportswear. This well-thought-out choice of designer sends a message to the American people: not only could the First Lady potentially embrace a new approach to fashion during this mandate, but she also intends to support her country and its fashion houses. Could we be witnessing a new era for Melania Trump and her representation of fashion?
Melania’s hat is giving Hamburglar #InaugurationDay pic.twitter.com/EnfQWNSwC1
— Cassie DB (@cassandra__db) January 20, 2025
In 2017, at the very moment of the inauguration, the fashion choices of Melania Trump and her husband already suggested they had something to prove. It wasn’t merely about showcasing impeccable elegance — which, for Melania, a former model, has never been an issue — but also about demonstrating that they could embody the image of a united and respectable presidential family. With her position, Melania can leverage what remains one of the greatest showcases of American fashion to adjust her strategy and align it with that of former First Ladies. This stylistic repositioning could also promote a more positive media perception and allow her to be seen as an independent figure, much like iconic First Ladies of the past. However, past tensions between the Trump administration and the fashion industry could complicate this endeavor.
While Melania appears eager to use fashion to climb in the electorate's esteem, she remains poorly regarded by some designers. “I have no interest in dressing Melania Trump,” Marc Jacobs declared in November 2016 in an interview with WWD. He added that he preferred to devote his energy to helping those affected by Trump's policies and supporters. Other influential figures in New York fashion, such as Phillip Lim and Derek Lam, also expressed their refusal to be associated with the Trump family. Yet, for brands like Adam Lippes, which cultivate an elegant and high-end aesthetic, dressing Melania Trump seems only natural. A spokesperson for Oscar de la Renta — a house that recently dressed Second Lady Usha Vance for a vice-presidential dinner, as well as Ivanka Trump for another event — told CNN that the brand was always honored to respond to a request from the First Lady of the United States, adding that their mission was to “help her look and feel her best, regardless of politics.” Adopting a new fashion strategy by Melania Trump wouldn’t mean that designers working with her have compromised their values. In reality, the public and the industry shouldn’t be surprised if fashion embraces Melania Trump differently this time.
For the fashion industry, refusing to align with conservative values can risk alienating part of its clientele. Designers rightly fear distancing themselves from their progressive community of fellow stylists, editors, and influencers. But bad press — or even no press — doesn’t erase the fact that, as a public figure, Melania Trump enjoys visibility among a wide audience of consumers often overlooked by the fashion elite. Comments under Oscar de la Renta’s posts, showcasing images of Trump’s daughter or wife, illustrate that consumers closely scrutinize brands and their political alignments. Let us hope the industry continues to stand firm against racism, xenophobia, transphobia, and misogyny, even as it would be naïve to ignore that a significant portion of the United States supports Donald Trump. While this administration and its fashion choices still spark debate, one thing remains certain: fashion, as a reflection of society, is deeply intertwined with political and cultural shifts.