
The highlights of Milano Fashion Week Menswear FW25 shows
New names and great returns

January 20th, 2025
The first intense week of the fashion month has just ended with the Milan Fashion Week Menswear dedicated to the FW25 collections. A week that, however, did not last long, considering that many major brands - such as Gucci, Fendi, and Moschino - have decided to showcase co-ed collections throughout the year. Nonetheless, true excellence is not measured by quantity, which was this fashion week's main takeaway. Few but high-quality shows, successfully explored a variety of creative approaches, breaking away from the stagnation that had become somewhat habitual in past Milan fashion weeks.
JORDANLUCA
An ode to love, whether romantic, platonic, or tied to personal passions. This is perhaps the best way to define the FW25 collection by JORDANLUCA, which culminated in a memorable moment: at the end of the show, held on Saturday, the two creative directors - Jordan Bower and Luca Marchetto - decided to get married after 15 years of relationship. This choice was reflected both in the casting and the overarching theme of the show, where, alongside numerous rising stars of the fashion world, the friends and family of the two designers also appeared. Regarding the collection itself, beyond the ever-present punk influence that defines the brand, there was a particular focus on British style. This was evident both in the materials, celebrating the few remaining English and Scottish weavers, such as Harris Tweed and Marton Mills, and in the reinterpretation of classic garments, such as the duffle coat, Barbour-style raincoats, and double-belt trench coats. For accessories, JORDANLUCA opted for a decisive mix of classicism and avant-garde, particularly evident in the footwear: the new shearling and leather wedges for women and the contemporary interpretation of men's Oxford flats, both adorned with details like padlocks and keys, represent one of the season's highlights. In short, it's hard not to describe JORDANLUCA's show as one of the most iconic of this season.
Dolce & Gabbana

There’s little to say about Dolce&Gabbana: between the set-up and the collection itself, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have once again reaffirmed that their show is one of the main events on the Milanese calendar. The FW25 collection, titled “Paparazzi”, draws inspiration from the timeless glamour of old Hollywood and Fellini's iconic film La Dolce Vita. In its essence, it’s an ode to cinema icons, celebrating Dolce&Gabbana's aesthetic codes through looks that narrate the lives of actors, from the early hours of the day to late at night. The narrative develops through a contrast between the simplicity of daily layering and the sophisticated elegance of the red carpet. Among the standout elements of the collection is a modern take on herringbone patterns, featured in relaxed suits and oversized coats, along with details evoking the Dolce Vita era, such as long furs with a '70s vibe. Evening suits, enriched with floral brooches inspired by the '40s, add a nostalgic and refined touch to the collection. With such an impressive menswear lineup, all that’s left is to await the womenswear show in February.
Saul Nash
Last Sunday, Saul Nash made his grand debut at Milan Fashion Week, after presenting a few collections on the London calendar. The young creative director is part of a long list of Central Saint Martins alumni and an equally prestigious lineage of International Woolmark Prize winners, an accolade he received in 2022. With a primarily genderless approach, Saul Nash is revolutionizing the worlds of sportswear and athleisure, particularly with his FW25 collection titled “Methamorphosis”. An ode to movement, seen as the ultimate expression of freedom, the collection's guiding thread is the continuous pursuit of functionality and versatility: kinetic cuts and innovative materials make each piece adaptable to the wearer’s needs, without compromising style or comfort. It’s no surprise, then, to see pieces like the Japanese Kaihara denim jacket with laser gradient prints or the recycled nylon parka with PRIMALOFT® padding, both designed to encourage freedom of movement. The highlight of this vision is the SLNSH capsule collection, created in partnership with Lululemon and launching on March 11, where the boundaries between sportswear and lifestyle blur even further. As Nash himself stated, “These pieces are an invitation to let go, to break free from conventions and explore a new side of oneself.”
Dhruv Kapoor
After his debut at Milan Fashion Week for the SS25 collection, Dhruv Kapoor has quickly become one of the most exciting emerging names on the Milan calendar. With his FW25-26 collection, the designer masterfully blends tradition and innovation, paying homage to the rich Indian sartorial heritage. The inspiration stems from the idea of rediscovering roots and renewing connections, a theme that translates into a perfect balance between opulence and minimalism. Iconic elements like the sari and dhoti pants are reimagined in a contemporary light, while a vibrant palette – featuring emerald green, electric blue, and earthy tones like henna green – adds depth and dynamism. Fabrics such as textured kinds of cotton, embroidered denim, and boiled wool tell a story of craftsmanship and modernity. Even the accessories stand out: artisanal leather trunks and crescent-shaped handbags, detailed with exquisite embroidery and premium finishes, recalling symbols of Indian visual culture. Setting itself apart from Milan’s traditional codes, Dhruv Kapoor continues to make Milan a bridge between East and West.
Pronounce
Directly from Shanghai, Pronounce, the brand by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, landed in Milan for the first time. Following a viral collaboration with the Labubu plush toys, fashion’s favorite mascots, the brand presented its FW25 collection titled “Romantic Sharpness”. A description that may initially sound paradoxical but is unveiled through the shapes and materials used. A journey through “hidden weapons and gentle warriors”, as the brand describes them, where images of swordsmen and desert landscapes intertwine with a romantic aesthetic. This FW25 collection takes shape around symbolic elements like the three-dimensional rope, hand-woven and braided, and the concept of protection translated into armor and shells. The narrative unfolds through tailored wool and cashmere garments, contemporary Mao Suits, and knitwear ensembles, embellished with buttons made of natural stones (White Jade, Gray Agate, Tiger’s Eye, Black Obsidian, and Rock Crystal), showcasing meticulous craftsmanship. For accessories, a collaboration with artist Lu Zheng resulted in a conceptual wooden bag, while creative team 998E crafted sunglasses with unconventional shapes. The show’s soundtrack, curated by Zheng Ke, 1334, and Jie Shi, complements an atmosphere of contrasts.
Magliano
Without a doubt, the Magliano show stands out as one of the best of the season. A hedonistic blend of the Mediterranean Sea and techno culture evoked especially through cool tones that run across all 35 looks on the runway. An aesthetic that invites the audience to an imaginary journey along the Adriatic coast, suspended between the humid winter air and the sweat of a night spent dancing. The collection’s essence lies in the subversion of sartorial codes, where underwear becomes the visible first layer: ribbed cotton jackets, transparent mohair trousers, and padded crepe-de-chine outerwear alternate in a play of textures and volumes that aspire to a bold, uncompromising nakedness. Accessories mirror this audacity, including a special bag created with Medea, reinterpreting intimate apparel with a provocative, quintessentially Magliano twist. The worn brilliance of knitwear decorated with Swarovski crystals and jewelry resembling washed-up relics complete a collection that speaks of ruins, memories, and lost mythologies.