Browse all

Craig Green's third collection for Moncler Genius

Sculptural volumes to fold like an origami

Craig Green's third collection for Moncler Genius Sculptural volumes to fold like an origami

In the seven years following his 2013 debut, Craig Green has become one of the biggest names of the fashion world. When Remo Ruffini of Moncler launched the Moncler Genius project, the British designer was one of the eight creatives chosen to redefine the style of the brand's iconic down jacket along with Pierpaolo Piccioli, Hiroshi Fujiwara and Simone Rocha. The collaboration was so successful that Green created two more FW17/18 and SS19 collections. Green's third Moncler collection has just been unveiled: 5 MONCLER CRAIG GREEN. The collection is already available on Moncler's website.

Green often says that if he didn't become a designer he would have become a sculptor. And sculpture is one of the most eye-catching inspirations when you look at his creations for the new line. The volumes and silhouettes are massive, complex and strongly structured. All outfits have different colors on the front and back. But it would be superficial to focus only on their appearance. The concept of the collection was in fact lightness. As Green himself said in an interview:

[The jacket] looks so heavy and haggard, but actually, it’s extremely light as a garment. That is partly the success of Moncler as a brand — it’s such a perfect garment to travel with because it can be compacted into a small space. It doesn’t need the care and attention in terms of ironing and steaming. The amazing thing about the way that the jackets are constructed is that they self inflate, in some way. […] When we were inventing the pieces in the collection, we had a rule: is it the lightest possible way of constructing the garment?

This is where the third element behind the collection, after structure and lightness, comes into play: functionality. The functionality is interpreted on two levels: the first is the conceptual one, related to the inspirations taken from functional objects, as can be sleeping bags and life jackets; the second is that of the actual design, since the puffer jackets are designed to be folded and packed into themselves. Always the theme of functionality is represented by the military moodboard that inspires the jersey jacquard hoodie or the "double" sweater in waffle wool on the front and cotton sweatshirt behind, a processing that is repeated in the pants, and the long-sleeve sweater with broken print that, once folded, reassembles the logo as a puzzle.

No one better than Green can interpret these themes. The son of a plumber and a nurse, surrounded by uniforms throughout his childhood, Green has felt from his childhood a fascination with workwear – a fascination that in the age of digital work and the decline of the uniform, is now tinged with a nostalgic and romantic patina. His reinterpretations of classic garments always marry the aesthetic high concept with extreme functionality. In the words of the same designer

I’ve always been attracted to the idea of things that either do something or look like they used to do something and are useless now. 

5 MONCLER CRAIG GREEN collection is already available on Moncler's website.