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Jacquemus SS19: "Le Gadjo"

The cool and free spirit nomads of Simon Porte

Jacquemus SS19: Le Gadjo The cool and free spirit nomads of Simon Porte

On the beach of the Calanque de Sormiou, an inlet where the cliff descends precipitously into the sea in the Calanques Natural Park near Marseille, Jacquemus's debut in menswear is staged.

"I grew up here, right behind those big limestone rocks. I grew up here, between the olive trees and the red tomato fields. I grew up here, with those men in blue tracksuits, matching blue bags and hats, all light blue [...] with those Saturday night white shirts clean and pressed, that gives you a nice tan in summer [...] I grew up here, barefoot, bare-chest[ed], strong perfume. I grew up here, in the Mediterranean.”

The designer Simon Porte explains before showing the world his umpteenth homage to childhood memories.

Le Gadjo, the title of the collection and term of the gypsy culture that indicates non-gypsy males, is the mirror of an image, a little '80s, remained etched in the memory of the enfant prodige, a young and naive wearing colorful, simple and informal items. 

His is, as Simon himself defines it, a "sans chichi" wardrobe, that is "without many froufrou, but straight to the point", made of striped polo shirts, Bermudas with pockets and a fisherman's hat; complete jacket and trousers, coordinated with sweaters or shirts; swim briefs and ties; a shirt with sunflowers prints (Jacquemus' favorite flower), patchwork sweater and trekking pouch; floating trench coats and surf shorts made of the same material with the orange and yellow leaf motif inspired by Matisse.

There is something in the fashion of Simon Porte that captures and makes you feel the sea, sun and Mediterranean, the desire to relive the carefree days spent on the beach when we were children.