Browse all

The 5 most anticipated debuts of fashion in 2022

From Nigo's arrival in Kenzo until Phoebe Philo's return

The 5 most anticipated debuts of fashion in 2022 From Nigo's arrival in Kenzo until Phoebe Philo's return

Although since the beginning of the pandemic it does not seem that many things have changed in fashion, the beginning of fashion month with the presentation of the FW22 collections is already full of a series of excellent debuts that will change the fashion landscape as we know it. Although at the moment the biggest unknown of the year remains the next creative director of Louis Vuitton, one of the most important events of Paris Fashion Week, the news and debuts of the season will be many and will mark a change of gear in the dynamics of the industry. The thing that unites all these debuts is that they involve designers or brands loved by the public – a signal that leads us to look with great optimism at the beginning of a new season that, however, due to the new pandemic wave, promises to be difficult at least on an organizational and logistical level.

Here are the 5 most anticipated debuts of fashion in the next FW22 season

Phoebe Philo's return

Perhaps no living designer was missed more than Phoebe Philo who, after taking leave of Céline's direction (with the accent) had taken a break from work lasting about three years, leaving a void in the hearts of fans. If her work had survived through her pupils, Peter Do and Daniel Lee, replacing such a beloved designer was almost impossible. For this reason, the announcement of his return, with a brand that bears his name and that above all is independent, despite the minority stake by LVMH, promises to be the great return that we all needed this year.

Matthieu Blazy and the new Bottega Veneta

The divorce between Daniel Lee and Bottega Veneta was the most pleasantly scandalous affair of 2021. After three years of constant success, the British creative director announced his farewell to the brand unceremoniously disappearing literally into thin air. Meanwhile, a series of increasingly insistent rumors (never rejected by Lee himself) have described a very problematic reality hidden behind the enormous rise to fame of the brand, with a series of rumors that have circulated among fashion insiders that can certainly not be reported here, which have made Lee an unofficial victim of the cancel culture of fashion. The unexpected hero of the situation was the Head of Design of the brand, Matthieu Blazy, veteran of Margiela and, reportedly, true author of the success of the brand, immediately appointed its new creative director and that at the next Milan Fashion Week promises to leave everyone stunned. 

Nigo arrives at Kenzo

Kenzo was the example of a brand that, started like a rocket in the 70s and 80s, had soon turned into a vacuous shadow of itself, marketing itself out of all proportion. Without wanting to take anything away from the work of its previous creative directors, who have kept it vital for years, the cult brand founded by Kenzo Takada needed the injection of energy that only a creative director of the highest level could give. For this reason, the announcement that Nigo, the supreme demiurge of Japanese streetwear, creator of BAPE and Human Made, would take the helm of the brand was a breath of fresh air for the public – especially since the designer was back from a brilliant collaboration with Louis Vuitton that everyone really liked.

The Trussardi renaissance

Trussardi is a great classic of Italian fashion that unfortunately fell into oblivion during the 2000s and streetwear-mania but never completely disappeared from the panorama of Milan thanks to the Michelin-starred restaurant Trussardi alla Scala which, during the pandemic, has turned into a food delivery service. But the Trussardi dynasty, so linked to the cultural life of Milan, could certainly not disappear like this and therefore the return of the brand to the fore with Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby at the helm, the Berlin duo that founded the cult brand GmbH, promises great things – certainly the choice of the two new creative directors could not be more guessed or better or so. 

A Parisienne at Emilio Pucci

Pucci is a very famous Italian brand, whose fame has unfortunately declined with the death of the founder Emilio, but which the LVMH group has prudently kept safe for a future relaunch. This year, after the capsule co-signed with Supreme, the brand has been assigned a new creative director, Camille Miceli, half-Parisian and half-Italian, but above all decorated veteran of fashion French who has worked with the greatest (Lagerfeld, Alaia, Ghesquiere) coming to creatively direct the accessories department of Louis Vuitton – a legendary brand that bases half of its existence on accessories. His arrival at Pucci seems like a perfect match: a very skilled designer who meets a very rich archive – her debut promises to be superlative.