8 new brands make their (re)entry at Dover Street Market Paris New labels as well as exclusive collections
Brands with Strong Cultural Roots
In the realm of heritage preservation, Institution, founded by Galib Gassanoff (a finalist for the 2026 LVMH Prize), draws on the history of Azerbaijan for its FW26 collection: inspired by Peri-Khan Sofieva, it incorporates traditional Karachop and Fachralo rugs hand-knotted by local artisans into exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces. Meanwhile, amachi., founded by Amachi Yoshimoto in the mountains of Nagano, Japan, conceives clothing as a bridge between humanity and nature, favouring earthy tones, handcraft, and hyper-textured materials.
Finally, London label A.V. Vattev reimagines contemporary masculinity with its "Nocturne" collection, weaving together its founder's Bulgarian heritage, certain musical subcultures of the 1970s and 1990s, and a range of eco-responsible approaches, including the reuse of deadstock fabrics.
From Structure to Subversion
The energy of subcultures and the rigour of tailoring run through several of the season's most compelling offerings. Founded by Christoffer Lundman (formerly of Burberry and Acne Studios), Swedish label Salon C. Lundman injects an architectural sensibility rooted in the Bauhaus into a pared-back Scandinavian wardrobe: its FW26 collection bets on sculptural tailoring, structured bombers, double-pleated trousers, and double-collar shirts crafted from fine Italian fabrics and deadstock. Ecstatic Research, the new ready-to-wear and publishing venture founded by Ed Davis (co-founder of Brain Dead), makes its debut with its first collection, "Environmental Studies"; infused by the work of filmmaker Derek Jarman and the figure of recluse Christopher Knight, it places archiving at its core, notably featuring an exclusive T-shirt for Dover Street Market. In New York, label Pretty Relics draws inspiration from '70s metal and '80s hardcore to deliver a wardrobe with a worn-in charm, defined by heavy washes and entirely deconstructed hand treatments.
To mark two decades of creation, London house ERDEM unveils its anniversary collection "The Imaginary Conversation," orchestrating a dialogue between the muses and historical figures who have shaped its world, through romantic tailoring, intricate embroideries, and the launch of a debut monograph published by Rizzoli.
High Performance and Craftsmanship on the Menu
In a purely industrial register, Italian label GR10K structures its FW26 collection around its permanent Replicated line (made from archival industrial textiles) and its Mainline dedicated to technological development, asserting a vision of clothing designed to withstand the test of time and terrain.
In eyewear and footwear, precision is paramount: Toronto studio Abicsi designs ultra-lightweight performance glasses printed entirely in 3D, featuring the proprietary "Wormhole" technology that allows a cord to be threaded directly through the temple. Finally, emerging brand JUDE, created by Jurgita Dileviciute and Denitsa Bumbarova, brings an architectural elegance to footwear with curved heels and sculptural proportions hand-crafted in Portugal from exceptional leathers.
By crossing fine craftsmanship, underground references, and cutting-edge technical innovation, this new wave of designers is redefining the space of expression in contemporary fashion. Whether preserving regional know-how, exploring industrial archives, or pushing the boundaries of 3D printing, these labels share a common ambition: to replace the ephemeral product with an object that is inhabited, rich in meaning, and grounded in reality. A sharp vision that Dover Street Market continues to drive forward by unearthing these emerging names.
