Dover Street Market launches its own label

For 13 years, Dover Street Market has filled the streets of Tokyo with looks that are sometimes niche, sometimes streetwear, thanks to the wide mix of brands ranging from Comme des Garçons, Simone Rocha, Sacai to Miu Miu, Prada, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta offered by the concept store. And for a year now, its founders Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe have done the same in Paris, with Dover Street Market Paris, quietly nestled in a corner of the Marais. Today, as the French capital’s menswear fashion week is in full swing, the institution announces that it will no longer be limited to offering a wide range of products from the world’s most beloved brands, but is also launching its own label, in an initiative that will welcome, according to Joffe, “a kind of guest of each designer who we will choose to work with.”

“We wanted to create a DSM original brand in a new way — for both business and image,” Joffe told WWD, stressing that “it’s certainly not a guest designer situation, almost the opposite.” “Each designer we work with will present something fundamentally different in one way or another — in design, category, image, sizing, positioning, attitude — or all six,” he continued. The first designer whose name will appear alongside DSM on the product label is Noir Key Ninomiya, who since 2012 has offered conceptual, deconstructed collections, incorporating cutting-edge technical experimentation into his creations.

“Ninomiya will be the first designer of the DSM label and will remain in that role as long as possible,” Joffe said. “We then plan to add other designers under the DSM brand umbrella, each with a different idea, concept, and name,” he added. “Our ambitions are limitless, but slow and steady to begin with... We’d like to make this first one popular and affordable.” But before discovering the next designers to collaborate with DSM, patience will be required, as the next label will not be announced before 2026. As for the launch of the brand, it will take place on June 28, and products will be presented to clients and wholesalers until July 1 at the Dover Street Market showroom in Paris, 35-37 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, alongside the Spring 2026 collections of ERL, Phileo, Rassvet, and Westfall.

Read the full interview with the Dover Street Market Paris team in Paris Future, the first printed issue of nss France, available for pre-order here.