5 things to know about the new series on Balenciaga's life

The first of six episodes of the Spanish miniseries Cristobal Balenciaga premieres today on Disney+, narrating the private life and career of the grand master of Parisian Haute Couture, portrayed by Spanish cinema veteran Alberto San Juan. The series is highly anticipated in the fashion world, breaking the tradition of a scarcity of fashion history series on screens, with exceptions like Halston and the Italian Made in Italy. Directed by Lourdes Iglesias and produced by Aitor Arregi, Jon Garaño, and Jose Mari Goenaga, the series promises a well-researched historical narrative shedding light on the life of the enigmatic and elusive Balenciaga. Early reviews praise its focus on accurate reconstruction rather than dramatic elements, providing an in-depth portrayal of the designer's life.

Here are 5 things to know about the new series Cristobal Balenciaga.

1. It's the First of Several Fashion Shows in 2024

The series marks the beginning of a unique moment in the 2024 TV schedule, with a lineup of fashion stories hitting various streaming platforms. Following the extraordinary BBC documentary on Coco Chanel, Coco Chanel: Unbuttoned, released in September, AppleTV is set to premiere the series The New Look, narrating the story of Christian Dior and Chanel in post-war Paris in February. Subsequently, Kaiser Karl will portray Daniel Bruhl as a young Karl Lagerfeld during his rise to power. In Italy, the second season of Made in Italy is also in production, approved but with no confirmed release date yet.

2. Many Characters Are Vintage Fashion Icons

Throughout the series, viewers will witness Gemma Whelan as Prudence Glynn, the first fashion editor of The Times; Gabrielle Lazure as Carmel Snow, legendary editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar and coiner of the phrase "New Look"; Anouk Grinberg portraying Coco Chanel; Patrice Thibaud as Christian Dior; Nine d’Urso, the actual daughter of Inès de La Fressange, as Balenciaga's muse, Colette, and finally, Anne-Victoire Olivier as Audrey Hepburn.

3. Original Locations Were Used

The series was filmed using ninety different sets scattered between Spain and France. However, keen-eyed fans might recognize the actual salon where Balenciaga showcased his Haute Couture collections. It's unclear if it's a set reconstruction or the real location, but teasers and photos suggest authenticity. Balenciaga's team collaborated with the production, opening the doors of their ateliers and having the script reviewed by the brand's archivists.

4. Archive Designs of Balenciaga, Dior, and Chanel Will Appear

Recreating the Haute Couture garments featured in the show was a meticulous and extensive project that required in-depth historical research and collaboration with key industry experts. Led by costume designer Bina Daigeller, an Oscar-nominated artist for Mulan, along with co-designer Pepo Ruiz Dorado, a team of 30 people dedicated themselves to bringing Balenciaga's original designs back to life. The collaboration received valuable support from the brand, providing access to archives, sketches, vintage photographs, and videos, and from Miren Arzalluz, director of Palais Galliera in Paris. While some garments were examined in person, most of the reconstruction relied on historical images and books. Dior and Chanel also played crucial roles, sharing resources and lending archive pieces. Daigeller emphasized the challenge of replicating Balenciaga's intricate designs, especially in sourcing fabrics that matched the weight and texture of those used in the original creations. However, the team managed to find materials like gazar, frequently used by Balenciaga. For balloon-shaped dresses, collaboration with a patternmaker trained by the brand's original team proved essential.

5. It Will Cover the Designer's Entire Career

The series will follow the story of the celebrated Spanish designer from the presentation of his first Haute Couture collection in Paris in 1937. After a successful career in ateliers in Madrid and San Sebastian, where he dressed Spain's elite and aristocracy, Balenciaga faced a new challenge in the sophisticated Parisian fashion scene. In a setting where Chanel, Dior, and Givenchy dominate Haute Couture, the Spanish designer must adapt his once trend-setting designs from Spain. The plot unfolds over the period from 1937, with the presentation of his first collection in Paris, until his death in 1972.