In 2022, archival fashion has officially become mainstream

It seems light years away when vintage clothing was the preserve of the lower classes and words like 'second hand' were regarded with suspicion. But if the gradual 'revival' of vintage is a phenomenon that has been going on for a decade now - driven largely by a new generation of environmentally conscious shoppers for whom second-hand shopping can be an important tool in the fight against climate change and the fast fashion industry - then 2022 was the year of triumph. A study by Global Data explored the world of the secondhand market and recorded record growth and rosy forecasts: the US secondhand market is expected to grow 24% in 2022 and double to reach $82 billion by 2026. Vintage is ubiquitous, from the pavements to the red carpet, in luxury shops, and describes a new way of conceiving wardrobe that is definitely here to stay.

Brands have been the first to jump on the bandwagon, rediscovering their own archives to search for new creative life in their past and implementing initiatives aimed at uniting old garments and new collections in a single, all-encompassing universe. This is the case with Gucci Vault, Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier, who have become retailers of their own archives. Collaborations between established resale platforms and luxury fashion houses are also flourishing: Gucci already announced a collaboration with luxury second-hand portal The RealReal in 2020, Burberry followed with a partnership with My Wardrobe Hq and, more broadly, Kering Group's decision to acquire a 5% stake in industry leader Vestiaire Collective. But not only luxury, adidas also debuted in resale with the Choose to Give Back initiative, followed by Crocs, Levi's and many others.

Paloma Esesser in Issey Miyake SS95

Bella Hadid in Gucci by Tom Ford

Iris Law in Comme Des Garçons 2007

Kylie Jenner in Comme Des Garçons 2007

Rihanna in Chanel Fur FW98 and Gucci bag 1998

Dua Lipa in Versace SS92

As far as celebrities are concerned, 2022 was the year when the dress code for social occasions finally changed. Not only with the overcoming of the antiquated norm of "wearing the same clothes twice in public" - thanks to outfit repeaters of the calibre of Helen Mirren, Susan Sarandon, Kristen Dunst and, last but not least, Anna Wintour - but also with the abolition of the habit of wearing an outfit that has already been worn by another celebrity in the past: from Iris Law in FW03 Versace in a replica of an outfit Beyoncé wore when she was only 19, to Emily Ratajkovki in the John Galliano Newspaper dress that made Sarah Jessica Parker famous. Synonymous with conscious consumers and forward-thinking retailers, the vintage trend is endorsed by celebrities who, reflecting a shift in society and a changed approach to fashion, are making the looks of the past cool again, indeed often much cooler than the new releases, synonymous with a refinement and awareness of the past that is entirely new between red carpet and street style. Such is the case with the iconic dress that belonged to Marilyn Monroe and was worn without much controversy by Kim Kardashian alongside Pete Davidson at the 2022 Met Gala, but not only. Celebrities like Rihanna, owner of a rich collection of Tom Ford pieces for Gucci, Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Bella Hadid and many others have often opted for a leap into the past for their looks, proving that fashion from the archive is the true luxury for trendsetters.