August Barron’s sublime fall from grace A dive into the Hollywood star system and its morning-after hangovers
On September 30, following Vaquera's explosive finale, duo day continued at La Cigale under the direction of Bror August Vestbø and Benjamin Barron. Far from sullen runways where timid nods pass for approval, the label reimagined the format as a full-blown ball. The audience interacted, cheered, and celebrated in true ballroom fashion. Born from a trip to Los Angeles three years ago, this overflowing energy fueled "Walk of Fame," the brand's second Paris show.
In the show notes penned by American writer Natasha Stagg, Hollywood’s legendary strip reads more like a striking Walk of Shame: “Stepping on stars’ names set in star-shaped tiles, while wearing what you wore the night before, on a date that led you far from, or to a party in hills so high you passed out before thinking to call a ride?”
A joyful temporal mess
The inspiration draws directly from the US West Coast and its film industry. But rather than breaking down eras decade by decade, the duo delivered a temporal collage summoning the 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, and 1970s. The ghosts of Sunset Boulevard, The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant, All That Jazz, and Boogie Nights all made an appearance. This clash gave birth to starlets either on the rise or already cast aside. August Barron’s goal was not to present a single, uniform female identity, but to bring distinct fictional characters to life.
To orchestrate the spectacle, the duo relied on their secret formula: stylist Lotta Volkova and set design by Béatrice Bonino. Loosely inspired by the clutter of a messy bedroom, the stage featured a mirrored backdrop and two runways extending into the crowd. The models' silhouettes fractured in the reflections, amplifying the collection's layered influences.
The art of the hurried detail
Above all, August Barron sought to capture fleeting moments - like a scarf caught in the wind, instantly evoking an actress speeding down an American four-lane highway in a Cadillac, hair blowing in the breeze.
The collection bristled with sharp, jarring pairings. Towering stiletto heels inspired by 1970s stripper footwear clashed with an athletic touch when worn over sports socks. Floral prints merged with solid fabrics within single garments, creating the impression of an outfit thrown on in a rush.
Layering and subversion unfolded throughout. A satin bustier dress slouched down to the hips to become a skirt - a structural device also seen this season at Julie Kegels -suggesting a garment that no longer fits, or an occasion slipping out of the wearer's reach. Similarly, an open satin bodysuit revealed its back flaps on the front like small wings. The Walk of Fame star motif made its way onto a zip-up hoodie paired with a satin top, driving a clash of aesthetics that the duo rode across forty-odd looks. Elsewhere, small satin rabbit ears injected a festive, carnivalesque tone, worn by models with a nonchalant walk. In an ultimate nod to Marilyn Monroe, the final dress hung suspended in mid-air, elevated by a powerful casting choice featuring a Black model for a striking closing tableau. This season also marked the label's first eyewear collaboration with Port Tanger. Here again, the detail spoke volumes: the lenses did not fully fill the frames, visually capturing the recurring motif of "falling short."
A label in full ascent
Formerly known as All-In before rebranding as August Barron last year, the duo's vision has won over both pop stars - from Addison Rae and Charli XCX to Chloë Sevigny -and industry institutions alike. In just three runway shows, five lookbooks, a move to Paris, and a spot on the LVMH Prize shortlist, Bror and Benjamin have propelled their label into one of the most exciting names on the emerging scene, all while continuing to publish their independent, limited-edition print magazine. Their wardrobe was embraced so quickly by pop culture icons precisely because the designers draw direct inspiration from them.
Yet to build lasting staying power, the brand knows it must balance high theatricality with wearable daily pieces. It is all about combining wilder, offbeat aesthetics with comfortable, easy-to-wear cuts. As Vestbø summarized to Harper’s Bazaar: “It’s an interesting challenge to make performative clothing feel wearable and easy.” Ultimately, August Barron delivered an offbeat show that hit all the right notes. Somewhere between poetry and disenchanted glamour, this runway performance offered a sharp reading of Hollywood's darker shadows.