For its SS27 collection, Loro Piana drew inspiration from real life The collection is called “Solutions For” and, piece by piece, meets everyday needs

At the Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, in the heart of Palazzo di Brera, Loro Piana presented the SS27 collection titled Solutions For, which set out to explore a founding principle of the Maison: identifying a need and responding to it with precision of material, construction and function.  

In the Sala Maria Teresa, under the gaze of the portrait of the Habsburg empress, large canvas panels with borders in the characteristic Kummel color told the story of Loro Piana archetypes through the original sketches. Wooden library ladders supported bags and accessories, while walnut display cases exhibited iconic garments laid out next to the drawings that generated them. The Grande Unita scarves, the Maison’s first Icon, were arranged as precious objects to be studied, each accompanied by a poem. A warm carpet made the space welcoming, almost domestic.  

In the Reading Room, one of the library’s most historic rooms, the garments come to life in an immersive lounge. Four tables invite direct contact with the savoir-faire: a fabric book, a tailoring bench, an eyewear display and a silk-screen laboratory. Here the dialogue between Loro Piana’s artisanal excellence and the Braidense’s heritage of knowledge becomes tangible.

To the principles of Loro Piana’s philosophy

In the history of Loro Piana, ready-to-wear has never been an ornament but always arises from a functional thought, shaped by use and experience. Creating makes sense only if it responds to a need and can have a concrete influence on everyday life. Precisely for this reason the collection Solutions For sought to translate this principle into a seasonal flow that starts from the coldest months and arrives at high summer, moving from day to evening. 

It includes solutions for staying warm, for outdoor life, for days on the golf course, for the evening, for vacation, for the beach. The protagonists are archetypes and pillars, new or already rooted in the Maison’s history, reduced to their timeless essence and realized in the most noble materials. The Loro Piana silhouette elongated, soft and layered, gains a new and sensitive pragmatism. And as always, the porosity between masculine and feminine remains intact because an archetype offers a solution regardless of who wears it.

The Womenswear collection

The women’s collection builds a path of materials, ranging from cashmere to linen to silk, and of colors, which instead shift from muted tones to earths, from dusty pastels to mineral intensities faded by the sun. In the looks, layering becomes an attitude: coats retain their precise line, bombers have substance, capes instead have enveloping structures and raincoats possess more protective forms. There is no shortage of tweed jackets with their academic charm nor hunting jackets that allude to adventure. Silk ensembles and tailored cardigan jackets instead suggest the same naturalness indoors and outdoors.  

For days on the course come the summer suit and the golf bomber, as well as jeans with a shirt in chambray. As the season advances the sleeves shorten, the layers open, the body gains air and movement. Protection does not disappear, but becomes lighter. Entering more vacation moods, the expedition shirts, sahariennes and field jackets define a grammar of ease and correctness designed to move and adapt in every situation. 

The shorts, borrowed from elements of utilitarian wardrobes, complete these looks with a touch of lightness. Just as do the crochet ensembles, the apron dress, the silk pajama, the combinations of shorts and vests. All these pieces are decorated with light prints while, opening up to more summer climates, swimsuits and pareos move naturally between water and shade. And along the same fluid line, with a similar aesthetic, this style continues for the more evening styles, from the more ethereal prints. 

The accessories follow the same logic. The bags both in the softest leathers and in fabric versions coordinated with the garments or in midollino, want as much to elevate the looks as to simplify the flow of everyday life: the Loom arrives in a new size and to it are added the Bale Softy, the Extra Softy Backpack. The jewelry includes new agate and silver brooches, collectible enameled pieces, necklaces in black agate and pearls. The shoes range from ballerinas to which a new Martha model is added, to loafers, Sunday Walk sneakers and espadrilles. The Joan Loafer returns in the softest calf, while the Fast Walk is renewed in new declinations.

The Menswear collection

Also in the men’s collection the principle remains identical: a flow that starts from the cold and arrives at summer, offering solutions for the same needs. The archetypes of the camel blazer, the balmacaan coat, the trench and the safari field jacket are simplified to their essence and realized in the most precious materials of Loro Piana. Here too, ease of movement and the softness of constructions remain central and set the nonchalant tone. Materials flow from cashmeres and tweeds to lighter lines; colors from neutrals to muted tones through to those faded by the sun. Constructions are soft. The idea of plein air, of a style lived in continuity with the environment, permeates everything.  

Tailoring mixes and matches in an informal way: blazer with chinos, coat with jeans, summer peacoat with wide trousers and woven raffia fastenings. Bombers and field jackets are worn with trousers tucked into socks, suggesting spontaneity and momentum. Layering, underscored by the mix of textures and colors, is at once a way of dressing and the proposal of an always versatile elegance. A piece can have its traditional function or become the innovative piece of a new combination: a quilted jacket in place of a shirt, for example. The same principle applies to the knitwear proposals.

Here too, for vacation moments, bermudas and saharienne shirts take the upper hand, while suits become even more deconstructed and light. For the beach instead airiness becomes the rule: guayabera jackets, printed shirts, linen trousers with drawstring. In the evening wardrobe, we find summer peacoats, high-neck jackets and cardigan jackets as well as more formal cardigan jackets, tuxedo shirt jackets and smoking jackets with loose shapes always in the rigorous black-and-white palette.

Still for him, the bags include the oversized Heddle tote in nubuck, grainy leather or canvas, the Pioneer backpack and the versatile Extra Pouch. The shoes instead range from golf-inspired goodyear derbies to ultra-soft reverse suede desert boots through to sandals. In both collections, offering solutions becomes the Loro Piana way of understanding the act of dressing: the one in which functional and elegant meet without contradiction. A wardrobe that does not impose, but responds. And that, in the monumental quiet of the Braidense, found the ideal place to recall that true refinement is, first of all, a form of precision.