
A series of auctions dedicated to Chanel, Hermès, and Dior set for November Maurice Auction is preparing to disperse one of the most impressive private collections of recent years
When more than 3,000 pieces arrive at an auction house all at once, the challenge extends far beyond standard logistics to border on museum curation. Built over decades by a single collector, "LE VESTIAIRE INFINI" (The Infinite Wardrobe) does more than just chronicle the history of fashion: it captures the intimacy of an obsessive passion. Given this colossal volume, the core objective was not to dilute this vision into an anonymous dispersion, but to curate a narrative structured into thematic chapters. The first act will open on November 18 at Galerie Bachaumont for a live auction, before unfolding into an impressive series of online sales featuring over 300 lots each.
Building a series of auctions from such a vast reservoir requires a near-academic curatorial effort. From initial inventory to cataloging, every garment and accessory undergoes a rigorous process of expertise and authentication. The exercise involved deciphering the collector's internal logic: grouping identical designs acquired in multiple colorways, reconstructing runway ensembles, and isolating historic pieces without disrupting the wardrobe's overall cohesion. This unique scenario offers a fascinating glimpse into the inner workings of an auction house, revealing how thousands of items received in a single consignment are transformed into seamlessly articulated thematic catalogs.
The beating heart of the collection centers on a masterful selection of 166 lots by Chanel, spanning four decades of creation under Karl Lagerfeld. Ranging from sequined suits and pour de verre costume jewelry of the 1980s and 1990s to Métiers d'Art pieces (Paris-Dallas, Paris-Byzance, Paris-Édimbourg), the curation reads like a retrospective. The most spectacular piece in this group remains an ivory grosgrain ribbon and black organdy ensemble from the Spring-Summer 1991 runway show, immortalized on Linda Evangelista and estimated at €15,000 – €20,000. It stands alongside a rare 1990 Haute Couture crepe and raffia coat-dress, as well as the embellished jacket from the Cruise 2005 collection - a pop-culture icon after its appearance in the film The Devil Wears Prada.
Another highlight of the sale lies in the extraordinary body of work dedicated to Christian Dior, dominated by the John Galliano era. The auction spotlights one of the pinnacles of late-1990s Haute Couture: the Medici Missionary ensemble from the Autumn-Winter 1998 Diorient Express collection, estimated at €10,000 – €15,000. The catalog also features the legendary silver lace bib necklace crafted by Maison Goossens for the In a Boudoir Mood collection (estimated at €10,000 – €20,000), along with four "Maasai" bib necklaces. This archival selection is completed by emblematic pieces such as the Trailer Park Chic printed dress, creations by Gianfranco Ferré and Raf Simons, and an exceptional leather goods chapter featuring the Lady Dior bag alongside rare Samurai models in crocodile and suede.
Beyond Dior and Chanel, the auction also highlights Hermès under the creative direction of Jean Paul Gaultier through remarkable leather items. Chief among them is an ultra-sleek 2009 jacket in matte white crocodile (estimated at €1,800 – €2,200), escorted by supple cinnamon leather suits and Russian-inspired suede waistcoats. The collector's exacting eye extends to the greatest names in contemporary fashion: from Azzedine Alaïa skater dresses and wool lace ensembles to Alexander McQueen cashmere coats with jeweled collars by Sarah Burton, dramatic feather-embroidered structures by Valentino, astrakhan suits by Dolce & Gabbana, and the famous Starfish embroidered bustier designed by Gianni Versace in 1992.
In short, the event brings together a wealth of archival pieces of absolute rarity, whose craftsmanship and historic value rival the collections of the world's leading fashion museums. An exhibition to be discovered at Galerie Bachaumont before these treasures join public institutions or the private wardrobes of collectors worldwide.