Burç Akyol, or the Art of the In-Between The designer explores liquidity in all its forms
Guests gathered at Espace Commines, tucked away just steps from Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, which was completely cordoned off for a protest. In this charged atmosphere, with the sharp tang of tear gas drifting in the distance, the sun-drenched venue proved no less stifling on this late-September afternoon hovering near 30 degrees Celsius. A few guests, loyal to the brand, braved the muggy heat in fitted trench coats and leather pencil skirts. Yet, at the exact moment silence settled just before the music erupted, the air suddenly felt easier to breathe.
Between ancestral ritual and contemporary fluidity
Titled "Milk and Wine", the collection opened on an enigmatic poetic note - a title reminiscent of an allegory, evoking both sacred abundance and a quest for liquidity. Milk, which the designer considers "something very primitive, Mesopotamian", found an immediate visual echo in the set design: terracotta vases lined a wall, anchoring the concept. Wine, meanwhile, embodied the "spiritual ritual". "I wanted to explore everything in between," Burç Akyol shared.
It is precisely within this gap, this zone of transition and hybridization, that the entire collection came together. Working primarily on a womenswear wardrobe - with only two looks worn by men - the designer summarized his approach in three adjectives: elastic (notably through the masterly use of jersey), dynamic, and sensual.
Metamorphoses and hybrid silhouettes
From the very first look, the blend was seamless: the bottom, halfway between a legging and capri pants, clung to the legs like a second skin. Up top, the torso retained the remnants of a tuxedo jacket with generously padded, structured shoulders, contrasting with a plunging neckline. At the waist, a belt crafted from pristine white fabric appeared hurriedly twisted around itself, referencing the milky tone of the title. This spotless detail reappeared later on the collar of a velvet jumpsuit, before turning a vibrant red on a fitted bustier - the first chromatic jolt shifting the collection toward the symbolism of wine, before deepening into a rich purple.
As the show progressed, the initial close-fitting silhouette broke free. Leggings gave way to pleated lilac trousers with subtle harem-pant accents. While the tuxedo structure persisted, it stiffened by adopting leather: the suit's foundation split, then reassembled to form a hybrid evening dress, finished with a long white train whose movement amplified the liquid effect. The rigid shoulders and geometric triangle neckline continually collided with this shifting fluidity.
Fluidity laid bare
Liquidity naturally brought sheer elements into play: organza and mesh subtly revealed the body, while a dress embroidered with brown and camel beads let skin peek through with every movement. Then, Burç Akyol executed a radical shift: black yielded to white in a complete reversal of balance.
Sheer, lightweight trench coats made their entrance, featuring a unique animal print depicting the hindquarters of a horse - a direct nod to the artwork installed along the seating layout. Stirrup pants, a true signature of the Akyol wardrobe, once again proved to be a centerpiece. To crown this exploration of liquidity and bodily liberation, the designer literally slashed skirts and trousers open: long vertical slits ran down the length, allowing the garments to float and move freely with every stride of the models.
With this collection, Burç Akyol demonstrates a remarkable mastery of hybridization. From jersey second skins to slashed trousers that whip through the air with every step, he crafts a look as cerebral as it is instinctive. A masterclass in balance where clothing, liberated from constraint, is in perpetual motion.