
The baroque and the surreal intertwine at Simone Rocha SS27 Drawing inspiration from Caravaggio, the Irish designer returns to London to assert a new hyperfeminine vision
After a formidable appearance as Guest Designer at Pitti Uomo, Simone Rocha returned to London Fashion Week with renewed romantic inventiveness. This time, the Irish designer was able to focus on womenswear, and to do so she chose to draw inspiration from one of the most renowned Italian artists of all time: Caravaggio. More specifically, she was influenced by the chromatic depth of the Taking of Christ, a 1602 work housed at the National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin.
Metallic silver, teal, red and midnight blue coloured a collection of original three-dimensionality, made up of ruffles, tulle boas, embroidery and exaggerated volumes. The babydoll dress and the slip dress, icons of the feminine wardrobe and perennial focal points of Rocha's sartorial research, were imbued with a pronounced sensuality through the addition of strategic sheer panels, deep round necklines, as well as accessories and items in glossy leather.
After years of bows and Botticellian pearls, Rocha's young women have finally abandoned traditional elegance to surrender to a distinctly dark, romantic, all-encompassingly hyperfeminine aesthetic. While hints of a darker mood had already appeared in Simone Rocha's recent collections, with the occasional addition of studs and gothic references, this SS27 represents the full maturation of the brand's new vision. Yet the adorable details that fans of the label have always cherished are certainly not absent — think the soft, oversized roses adorning the necklines of blue velvet mini dresses, or satin bows transformed into clutch bags.
While some looks reference Simone Rocha cult pieces — such as realistic roses tucked beneath flesh-toned tights or black windbreakers covered in rhinestones and sequins — others introduce several new styling directions for the brand, including the refined layering of shirts and oversized skirts, as well as the addition of micro biker shorts. In this perfect balance between drama and practicality, between outerwear perfectly suited to rainy Northern European days and surreal gowns made to be worn at an exclusive gala in a baroque estate à la Saltburn, Simone Rocha has yet to stop making us fall in love with her poetic vision.























































































