A new documentary explores John Galliano's life

Born Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén, John Galliano embodies the most exciting era in fashion history. This enigmatic designer, once dubbed the industry's "enfant terrible", started out as a student in London at Central Saint Martins. His first collection, inspired by the French Revolution, became emblematic, carrying with it the legacy of the deconstruction movement. The Les Incroyables collection attracted attention from all sides of the industry, but rather than partnering with established maisons, Galliano took the bold step of founding his own label. He created pieces that were both avant-garde and historic, quickly establishing a reputation among the British fashion elite. Despite critical acclaim, Galliano's brand lacked financial backing and his designs, while innovative and inspired, were not suitable for everyday use. Bankruptcy loomed, but the intervention of Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley changed the trajectory of Galliano's brand. Two great admirers of Galliano's creations, they negotiated financing for the designer and helped him to set up in Paris.

GIvenchy Haute Couture, Summer 1996

Les Incroyables, 1984

Les Incroyables, 1984

Les Incroyables, 1984

After several collections in the fashion capital, Galliano was scouted by Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, to join the creative direction at Givenchy. His time at Givenchy was brief, but decisive. The 1996 Couture collection, presented at the Stade de France, was a breathtaking spectacle, mixing the styles of eighteenth-century courtesans with cabaret singers from the 1920s. Despite initial doubts, Galliano was transferred to Dior the same year, succeeding Gianfranco Ferré. Admittedly, the veterans of French industry did not look kindly on the arrival of an inexperienced designer at the head of one of the most prestigious fashion houses, but Galliano's bold and intrepid approach, combined with his technical skills, was the contemporary change the company needed, as he tripled the house's turnover.

On the occasion of the release of the new documentary High & Low - John Galliano, we take a look back at the designer's life story.

The rise and downfall of Galliano's genius 

Dior Haute Couture Summer 2007

Dior Haute Couture Winter 2007

Givenchy Fall 1996

Dior Haute Couture Summer 2004

Dior Haute Couture Winter 2005

Dior Haute Couture, Winter 1999

Dior Haute Couture Winter 2007

Dior Haute Couture 2007

Kate Moss Wedding Dress, 2011

At Dior, the crushing pressure on Galliano could not be ignored. Producing six collections a year proved a daunting challenge for the designer, having to juggle his own brand's direction with a meteoric rise to fame. He took refuge in alcohol and drugs to soothe his anxieties, with disastrous consequences for his health and career. His descent into hell reached a climax in 2010, when drunken rants and anti-Semitic comments were reported by one customer at a bar. This episode led to his arrest and serious charges in France, resulting in his dismissal from his position at Dior and from his own brand, partly owned by LVMH. The accusations and conviction came as a shock to the industry, leaving many perplexed by the hateful comments made by one of the France's most adored designers. Galliano lost his career, his prestige and his status. After rehab, he became extremely discreet, disappearing for three years, with the exception of designing Kate Moss's wedding dress in 2011. Many consider this to be the coup de grâce for Galliano. The designer's story can serve as an example to those who make regrettable and hurtful choices, but who end up taking responsibility for them, making amends and engaging in the dialogue necessary to obtain forgiveness.

A gradual return to the catwalk

Galliano FW13

Galliano FW13

Galliano FW13

Galliano FW13

Galliano FW13

Galliano FW13

Anna Wintour is once again committed to the designer's return to the catwalk. At the editor's request, Oscar de la Renta invited Galliano to his New York studio for a temporary residency to prepare the autumn 2013 ready-to-wear collection, presented at New York Fashion Week. Galliano kept a low profile by staying behind the scenes, but the collection was well received, reminiscent of his time at Dior with draped necklines and flared hips. Although some downplayed its importance, the Oscar de la Renta residency proved crucial to Galliano's return to the fashion industry. In parallel with his discreet return to the catwalk, the designer began to talk about the 2010 incident, a vital step in gaining forgiveness from the industry and his peers. Despite his numerous statements of regret, an in-depth discussion and a public account of the events were essential. After rehab, he gave an interview to Vanity Fair, explaining the circumstances that led him to make such odious comments, noting that he is not anti-Semitic but that he used «the nastiest words that came to mind at the time». His outspoken statements have been met with understanding by the industry and groups such as the Anti-Defamation League, hailing Galliano's willingness to make amends.

Lifting the mask at Margiela 

Maison Margiela SS19

Maison Margiela FW15

Maison Margiela FW22

Maison Margiela FW22

Maison Margiela Co-Ed 2023

Maison Margiela SS24

Maison Margiela SS24

Maison Margiela Co-Ed 2019

Maison Margiela SS24

The designer made his return in 2014 as creative director of Maison Margiela, the house having remained under the direction of his design team after Martin Margiela's departure. His return to the catwalk was illustrated by an all-red collection, generating widespread enthusiasm. His contract was renewed for 2019, putting Galliano in charge of the house's womenswear, menswear, accessories and couture departments. Unlike his stressful experience at Dior, his role at Margiela shows him to be more serene, approaching his tasks with pragmatism rather than getting carried away. Observers of Galliano's creative process see an incredibly practical and focused approach emerge once the smoke had cleared. What's more, the house's revenues have increased since his arrival, while preserving its signature blend of history and innovation, deconstructing design stereotypes. For the Artisanal 2022 collection, Galliano presented a medieval gothic tale about two lovers on the run after parricide, unveiling a new motif, Sandstorming. He enlisted the help of long-time models Amber Valetta and Anna Cleveland. When he started at Margiela, the maison founder advised him to «make the house his own», advice Galliano took to heart, choosing a down-to-earth approach yet keeping a bold outlook on innovation.

The designer is currently the subject of a documentary by Kevin Macdonald: High & Low - John Galliano. In the age of cancel culture, of which Galliano's story is perhaps one of the earliest examples, the director explores notions of forgiveness, redemption and atonement with the designer. According to the director, when asked why he agreed to take part in the film, the designer explained: «I'm not making the film because I want to be forgiven. I'm making the film to be understood a little better». So we see that the designer is not so much concerned with the optics or repetition of the events that led to his dismissal, but rather seeks to lift the mysterious cloud that protected him, while subjecting it to scrutiny. He says: «I now understand that I had no choice but to follow this path and stumble. It was a message sent by God. We are like children, we need to fall to learn.»