Last year, we had the idyllic world of Barbie; this year, the bold audacity of Brat. Like a pendulum swinging from one extreme to another, the trends of 2024 have fiercely clashed with everything we cherished in 2023: from the anti-consumerism wave sparked by TikTok’s de-influencing phenomenon to the chaotic rise of the Indie Sleaze aesthetic, a rebellion against the rigid perfectionism of coquette-core. This year, many of the pillars of contemporary society, previously thought to be under control, began to falter—perhaps because they had become too heavy for a world obsessed with appearances. Social media started showing signs of strain in the early months of the year, amid the growing influence of AI, financial scandals involving influencers, and the subsequent disillusionment of audiences with the fantastic (and often fake) universe called the internet. Meanwhile, the world’s largest tech companies entered a decline during the so-called "Big Tech Recession,” which led companies like Meta, Amazon, and Microsoft to impose layoffs while the European Commission imposed additional regulations to curb their growth.
Even luxury, a sector that had remained resilient alongside Big Tech for years, faced the strain of 2024. Consumers, fatigued by overconsumption, slowed their spending, leading luxury giants like LVMH and Kering to report significant revenue losses. Indeed, the grand aquarium of luxury fashion seems to have sprung leaks from every side this year. Made in Italy failed to safeguard its reputation, embroiled in serious ethical issues related to illegal production practices. Conflicts such as those between Russia and Ukraine, as well as Israel and Palestine, severely impacted supply chains, even shaking the seemingly invincible diamond market. Meanwhile, the collapse of gray markets, and semi-underground networks of legitimate products distributed through unauthorized channels, exposed questionable practices employed by retailers struggling to stay afloat in a wobbling economy. This, compounded by a significant price increase, pushed consumers further away from the luxury they once blindly pursued.
In short, 2024 will be remembered in years to come as the beginning of a crisis, the breaking of the spell. The public, ultra-informed thanks to direct sources like social media and podcasts, has reached a level of awareness where they can deconstruct any phenomenon in mere moments. Whether it’s social trends (we all recall how quickly the term demure disappeared from our screens) or fashion movements (what became of quiet luxury?), 2024 was filled with fleeting trends that, like a comet, shone too brightly and burned out too soon. And yet, over the past twelve months, the world eagerly embraced any oddity capable of going viral: from *demure* and quiet luxury to aura points, brands’ self-deprecating marketing, behind-the-scenes videos of athletes during the Paris Olympics, and the unforgettable dissing between Drake and Kendrick Lamar. In 2024, our phones were so overloaded with content, our algorithms so busy, that the only thing left to do now is turn off all our devices. And someone has already made it a trend.
After all, we are in the era of post-woke culture, where social paradoxes coexist harmoniously despite criticism: second-hand shopping has reached peak popularity among Gen Z (7 out of 10 young people buy used clothes), yet resale platforms are flooded with fast fashion items; celebrities promote their health-conscious products, but all of Hollywood has jumped on the Ozempic bandwagon without fully understanding its long-term side effects; online, people celebrate personalization and individual style, yet prepackaged bundles of keychains and accessories for "Birkinification" are readily available. The beauty of the internet lies in its contradictions—a crystalline mirror of our bizarre yet predictable lives—provided the content wasn’t created using Artificial Intelligence.
This December, the second edition of Fashion Alphabet by nss magazine returns to clarify the biggest phenomena of 2024. Compiled through an in-depth analysis of the contemporary fashion landscape, this report highlights the most prominent trends on Instagram and TikTok, while also spotlighting some of the creative forces behind the year’s most significant artistic achievements.